Half way between Durban & Pietermartizburg in KwaZulu Natal
Kwa Zulu Natal, is known for its mild climate easy access and great climbing and hiking weather all year round, and don’t think there is no variety….
With easy access to SA’s biggest mountains, the Drakensberg, there are great opportunities for hiking in really big mountains, and of course the excitement of climbing massive free standing peaks, not forgetting the ice climbing in winter. And for those who want something a little smaller and less committing, KZN also has some of the best rock in the country at various crags around the province. Be warned though, climbers used to Magaliesberg and Free State rock will generally find Natal rock harder at similar grades.
Monteseel is by far the oldest, and biggest climbing area in KZN, with over 300 documented routes on excellent Natal sandstone / quartzite. It dates back to the early 1940’s when the first routes were climbed and saw the greatest activity in the mid to late 1970’s. This is a Trad only area, although there are a few sport routes in the high grade end of the scale. There are moves afoot to equip some of the unused climbs with top chains so allowing top roping without the need of a Trad rack.
Most routes are single pitch, but a number of excellent multi pitch routes are available. Climbing consists of well protected moves, usually between rails which are suitable for a wide range of gear. Most placements are bomber, so you can be assured of good pro.
Not far from Monteseel are a number of Sport climbing venues, Kloof Gorge, Shongweni, Hilton are all very popular, and if you want to add in some game viewing in Zululand, a visit to White Umfolosi crag is a must.
Access at Monteseel is probably the easiest in the Province, with no permits necessary and with the crags being on public land there is no problems with landowners. This probably accounts for Monteseels continued popularity even though there is a trend for Sport climbers to shy away from Monties, Trad climbers and sport climbers willing to top rope are still attracted. The security situation is very good with no reported problems over the last two years, however common sense must still prevail, and climbers should not leave gear unattended.
The old mountain club hut at Monteseel had fallen into desperate disrepair until taken over by Wildways Adventures and renovated to provide cost effective accommodation to climbers and hikers, close to the main climbing areas. (200m). Dormitory accommodation for 9 as well as camping is available. A fully equipped kitchen and comfortable surrounds has turned this once overgrown property into an asset to climbing in KZN. The hut has been equipped with an indoor climbing wall and fixed Prussiking ropes for training indoors.
The majority of climbs face North West so shade is minimal and usuall
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