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Thursday 13th August 2009 at 7:31:03 PM
Rank: Belay Test Passer
#Posts: 1
#Points: 1
What is the load limit for the following system (following a 10 to 1 safety factor)?
1/2 inch kernmantal rope with two steel carabiners, two pulleys, and three figure eight on bight knots...
Wednesday 19th August 2009 at 4:31:11 PM
Rank: Cut-loose Expert
#Posts: 280
#Points: 280
so you don't exceed it (not that you would in any practical situation with beefy gear).
What is the load limit for the following system (following a 10 to 1 safety factor)?
1/2 inch kernmantal rope with two steel carabiners, two pulleys, and three figure eight on bight knots...
depends on the tensile strength of your rope (varies by rope manufacturer) or the pulleys (varies by pulley). typically steel biners are rated somewhere around 45kN which will be the strongest component in the system as long as they're not cross-loaded. the pulley strength depends on their ratings (should be printed/stamped in the pulley metal - and if it's made for rescue it should be plenty strong enough ~30kN). knotted rope has about 75-80% of the tensile strength of the rated strength. if you calculate the strength reduction for the knots and it exceeds that of the pulley, then the pulley rating is the strength of the rig. otherwise, it's the calculated tensile strength of the rope with the ~20% reduction for a knot. more knots= greater drop in overall rope strength but the relationship is not liner, and i don't remember the approximation off the top of my head.
Wednesday 26th August 2009 at 12:31:37 PM
Rank: Super Member
#Posts: 767
#Points: 820
I agree with Chili. Its important, allthough alot of new climbers don't think about specifics, to learn as much about your equipment as you can. Try looking up fall factors, this explains the load limit of the rope you are using. Every piece of equipment for climbing should have a tensile stregnth labeled on it somewhere. If you just top-roping, don't worry too much. Hope this helps.
Thursday 26th November 2009 at 6:17:06 PM
Rank: Gumby
#Posts: 21
#Points: 21
Sunday 9th January 2011 at 9:26:25 PM
Rank: Rookie
#Posts: 13
#Points: 13