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trad climbing

Tuesday 3rd November 2009 at 4:17:47 PM

TAFFY
Rank: Belay Test Passer
#Posts: 4
#Points: 4

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can anyone offer some advice please, ive been climbing now for a little over two years, i would say that two thirds of that time has been indoors and the other third outdoors on trad and sport routes,i have been on several climbing courses outside including a lead course,and have realy enjoyed the time spent on real rock,but even though i am climbing indoors at grades of up to 6+, according to grade comparisson tables, outside i should be climbing at a grade or two higher than v diff, but dont seem to be progressing, i am already leading multipitch climbs at vdiff and would like to get a couple of grades higher,is there any advice someone could offer please

Wednesday 2nd December 2009 at 9:49:55 PM

kdelap
Rank: Gumby
#Posts: 21
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Try doing routes that are over your limit. Following or "top-roping" climbs that are harder than you lead will improve your skill greatly. Also bouldering helps with technical movement. Bouldering also is a social activity that allows you to watch your peers and figure out new techniques to different problem or moves.

Tuesday 8th December 2009 at 3:18:07 PM

SilviaFitz
Rank: Rookie
#Posts: 11
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If you are climbing a 6+ at the climbing wall then "in theory" that equates to a lot more than VDiff - technically it is more like HVS and E1.

Thus physically you are more than able to climb harder.

I would probably try to look at confidence, technique and mileage:

Confidence: Try to find a regular climbing partner and become a team - confident that each person can keep the other safe, encouraging each other and perhaps a little friendly competition. Practice your rope work, gear placing and anchor building as these core skills will keep you safe and give you the confidence to move above gear. Get used to being above your gear on more challenging territory - if this feels strange or uncomfortable then try using a loose top rope until you become accustomed to the new feelings.

Technique: Climbing outside is very different from pulling on jugs in the gym - it is far more subtle and far more reliant on good footwork. Don't just try to get to the top of a route do it in good style - conciously try to move smoothly and precisely, place your feet accurately, weight them and trust them. Try different options and see how each feels. Learn to flow.

Mileage: Climb lots and climb with your brain engaged - every route should be not just good fun, but try to learn from it. A lot will happen naturally as you become more confident in the new enviroment, but a positive, thoughtful attitude will accelerate this.

Hope this helps

S

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