Rock Climbing Info, News, Pictures, Forum, Shop, Travel and Community
 Members 
 
 

#Posts: 42   Page: 1/3  
  CLIMBING SHOES
Wednesday 26th March 2008 at 6:22:40 PM  

tbogh
Gumby
Posts  20     Points   20
  View Member Profile Profile View Member Pictures Pictures Print this Post Print Email this Post Email Post a Reply Reply Post a Reply with a Quote Quote

i'm looking to get my first pair climbing shoes. on the couple climbs i've done before i either borrowed a pair or just wore my favorite runners. i'm leaning towards the mad rock phoenix, the price is good and from what i have read they seem like a good starter shoe.

i'm interested in what you guys think about them. and of course any suggestions would be great. also i'm wondering what shoes you guys wear.

thanks,
travis
 
Wednesday 26th March 2008 at 8:19:47 PM  

herothezero1
Technical Climber
Posts  162     Points   163
  View Member Profile Profile View Member Pictures Pictures Print this Post Print Email this Post Email Post a Reply Reply Post a Reply with a Quote Quote

I have a pair of Mad Rock Pheonix and they are O.K. but Mad Rock in general does not get a great revue. I do know that I ordered them a half size smaller than my street shoes and they are not all that comfy. On the same note they are leather and will eventually stretch and give a little more room. Go ahead and put up 30 more bucks and get some shoes you really like.
Also try them on before you buy them if at all possible.
Heath
 
Thursday 27th March 2008 at 8:26:52 AM  

ffemt
Technical Climber
Posts  159     Points   189
  View Member Profile Profile View Member Pictures Pictures Print this Post Print Email this Post Email Post a Reply Reply Post a Reply with a Quote Quote

I used to wear Evolv Defy and now have a pair of Mad Rock Super Loco's. I liked the Defy's as a good show to start climbing. With the Mad Rock's I got a great Pro deal that I couldn't turn down. At the time I wouldn't have paid full price for them. Now that I've climbed with them for a while I would. They are comfortable to my foot even though they have the aggressive turned down toe. Work well in all the situations that I have used them.

Mike
 
Thursday 27th March 2008 at 10:08:53 AM  

davey569
Cut-loose Expert
Posts  199     Points   200
  View Member Profile Profile View Member Pictures Pictures Print this Post Print Email this Post Email Post a Reply Reply Post a Reply with a Quote Quote

i wear quechuas but it all comes down to what you want. do you want comfort? style? performance? what climing do you do? all of these things can alter the type or make of shoe you wear. first thing to do is find out what climbing you do, do you want a shoe for bouldering? do you want a boot for long multi-pitch climbs? do you want velcro shoes for speed? or laces for tightness? go to a good store with an extreemly wide range of shoes and experts that know what to say when you ask them these questions, but a good expert will not tell you ''this is the shoe you want'' that is wrong they should say ''these are the shoes you may be looking for'' its all about personal preference, dont just buy the cheapest or even the most expensive, buy the ones that A; suit you best being comfortable on the crag and B; suit your style best by being adapted to the climbing you will do.
i hope this helps and remember when it comes to gear (not just shoes) its up to you to decide what you need.
dave
 
Thursday 27th March 2008 at 11:11:36 AM  

RockRat2008
Cut-loose Expert
Posts  319     Points   327
  View Member Profile Profile View Member Pictures Pictures Print this Post Print Email this Post Email Post a Reply Reply Post a Reply with a Quote Quote

Yes, for shoes I would definitely say try them on before you buy them and wear them for 20-30 minutes if at all possible.

A lot of the climbing stores around here have little mini-walls so that you can try on the shoes and then actually step on the rock with them to see how they feel.

Nothing is worse than a pair of shoes that hurt your feet. Climbing will go from something you love to something you hate quickly.

Mike
 
Saturday 29th March 2008 at 8:18:20 AM  

davey569
Cut-loose Expert
Posts  199     Points   200
  View Member Profile Profile View Member Pictures Pictures Print this Post Print Email this Post Email Post a Reply Reply Post a Reply with a Quote Quote

true mike some nice advice there. over here were not allowed to go on walls as such but i climb on shelves and seats at the stores (as long as no ones watching) and this gives me an idea.
 
Sunday 30th March 2008 at 8:53:14 PM  

bradkillough
Super Member
Posts  577     Points   629
  View Member Profile Profile View Member Pictures Pictures Print this Post Print Email this Post Email Post a Reply Reply Post a Reply with a Quote Quote

Everybody has there shoe that they like and thats the way it should be, but even if your a beginner, spend a little extra and get the best shoe you can buy. Your first shoes are just as important as your 5th, but that does'nt mean you have to buy the most expensive. My first shoe was the red and blue Boreal Aces, the first Aces they made and they are a great technicle shoe for face climbing. I have a two pairs of Mad Rocks and the Flash ( velcro ) are the best of the two, even though I'm not a big fan of velcro shoes, and the Pheonix are ok.........just ok. Moccosyms ( slippers ) are a good choice for bouldering , and are versatile enough for trad. Climber Steph Davis told me she likes a moccosym a size too big for trad, But as with all slippers, they ware out faster than a good stiff board lasted shoe like the Tradmaster. Just an idea, but the choice is yours of coarse, just try to make it a good one!! And CLIMB ON!!

Monday 31st March 2008 at 12:40:31 AM  

tbogh
Gumby
Posts  20     Points   20
  View Member Profile Profile View Member Pictures Pictures Print this Post Print Email this Post Email Post a Reply Reply Post a Reply with a Quote Quote

thanks all,
thats some pretty solid advice. its nice to hear all of your advice because you all know what your doing and have been there before. i think i'm going to go with la sportiva's mythos. my buddy has a pair that i tried on, even though it wasn't the exact size i need, they still felt good.

travis

 
Monday 31st March 2008 at 7:15:27 AM  

adrew
Belay Test Passer
Posts  3     Points   3
  View Member Profile Profile View Member Pictures Pictures Print this Post Print Email this Post Email Post a Reply Reply Post a Reply with a Quote Quote

Hi
Im looking for climbing shoes
this will be my first pair because i have borrowed or hired them before
ive seen a pair of 5.10 Anasazi slippers
any good ?
thanks andy
 
Monday 31st March 2008 at 10:04:45 AM  

herothezero1
Technical Climber
Posts  162     Points   163
  View Member Profile Profile View Member Pictures Pictures Print this Post Print Email this Post Email Post a Reply Reply Post a Reply with a Quote Quote

bradkillough posted the following on Sunday 30th March 2008
, and the Pheonix are ok.........just ok.

I will definatly agree, I was out this weekend(more on this later) and I felt like I was not getting the friction out of them that I felt was needed.
 
Monday 31st March 2008 at 12:15:24 PM  

chilli
Technical Climber
Posts  194     Points   194
  View Member Profile Profile View Member Pictures Pictures Print this Post Print Email this Post Email Post a Reply Reply Post a Reply with a Quote Quote

tbogh posted the following on Monday 31st March 2008
...i think i'm going to go with la sportiva's mythos...

mythos stretch a bit; just so you know. don't by super-small (and don't EVER buy a truly uncomfortably tight shoe), but make sure that they're snug if they're new, because they will stretch a bit.

adrew posted the following on Monday 31st March 2008
ive seen a pair of 5.10 Anasazi slippers any good ?

if you're just getting into climbing the best thing you can do is get yourself some good shoes that you could wear on the rock all day long. i can't personally speak to how good slippers may be, because i'm a fan of lace-ups (or velcro for bouldering or TR). but i CAN tell you that my first pair were comfly and i was ok to be in them for a while without any aching toes. a lot of people (especially those who like gym/boulder/sport climbing) tend to try and buy shoes that are overly tight the first time around, and it just ends up uncomfortable. keeeping that tip in mind, i've heard good things about anasazis from friends.
 
Monday 31st March 2008 at 2:26:04 PM  

bradkillough
Super Member
Posts  577     Points   629
  View Member Profile Profile View Member Pictures Pictures Print this Post Print Email this Post Email Post a Reply Reply Post a Reply with a Quote Quote

The Pheonix are not my favorite shoe, I mean when you buy a new pair, you can take a lite piece of sandpaper and buf the sheen ( shiney part on the rubber ) off and they usually stick pretty good after a few climbs, but not the Pheonix. The flash are great for climbing, but I'm not a big fan of velcro-slippers.

tbogh posted the following on Monday 31st March 2008
thanks all,
thats some pretty solid advice. its nice to hear all of your advice because you all know what your doing and have been there before. i think i'm going to go with la sportiva's mythos. my buddy has a pair that i tried on, even though it wasn't the exact size i need, they still felt good.

travis

My son has got a pair of mythos and he loves them. They have a great technicle toe and are really comfortable!! The new color and slight design change are nice also.

Friday 4th April 2008 at 4:56:09 PM  

herothezero1
Technical Climber
Posts  162     Points   163
  View Member Profile Profile View Member Pictures Pictures Print this Post Print Email this Post Email Post a Reply Reply Post a Reply with a Quote Quote

Does anyone know about the 5.10 Pitons, I know that they are designed for Trad. but doeas that limit them only to Trad?
 
Friday 11th April 2008 at 10:14:29 AM  

tbogh
Gumby
Posts  20     Points   20
  View Member Profile Profile View Member Pictures Pictures Print this Post Print Email this Post Email Post a Reply Reply Post a Reply with a Quote Quote

thanks for all of the good info. it really helps hearing it from the pros themselves

travis

 
Friday 11th April 2008 at 7:41:26 PM  

bradkillough
Super Member
Posts  577     Points   629
  View Member Profile Profile View Member Pictures Pictures Print this Post Print Email this Post Email Post a Reply Reply Post a Reply with a Quote Quote

herothezero1 posted the following on Friday 4th April 2008
Does anyone know about the 5.10 Pitons, I know that they are designed for Trad. but doeas that limit them only to Trad?

No, they are (first), "climbing shoes" and recomended for trad and they may be best suited for trad, but you can wear them on other climbs.

#Posts: 42   Page: 1/3  
 
 GLOBAL ROCK CLIMBING SEARCH
Entire Site | Info | News
Pictures | Forum | Shop | Travel
 ROCK CLIMBING GIFT IDEAS
Check out these Rock Climbing Gift Ideas!
MEMBER LOGIN
Members please login to access your picture sharing and management tools:

Username:  
Password:
  password?
advertisementadvertising info
DAILY DISCOUNT COUPONS

For a complete list of all discount coupons with our merchants, subscribe to our Discount RSS Feed:
Back to Top


© 2003-2008 ABC of Rock Climbing, part of MaxLifestyle International Inc. All rights reserved.