tbogh
Gumby
Posts 20
Points 20
|
|
|
i'm looking to get my first pair climbing shoes. on the couple climbs i've done before i either borrowed a pair or just wore my favorite runners. i'm leaning towards the mad rock phoenix, the price is good and from what i have read they seem like a good starter shoe.
i'm interested in what you guys think about them. and of course any suggestions would be great. also i'm wondering what shoes you guys wear.
thanks, travis
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
I have a pair of Mad Rock Pheonix and they are O.K. but Mad Rock in general does not get a great revue. I do know that I ordered them a half size smaller than my street shoes and they are not all that comfy. On the same note they are leather and will eventually stretch and give a little more room. Go ahead and put up 30 more bucks and get some shoes you really like.
Also try them on before you buy them if at all possible.
Heath
|
|
|
|
|
ffemt
Technical Climber
Posts 159
Points 189
|
|
|
I used to wear Evolv Defy and now have a pair of Mad Rock Super Loco's. I liked the Defy's as a good show to start climbing. With the Mad Rock's I got a great Pro deal that I couldn't turn down. At the time I wouldn't have paid full price for them. Now that I've climbed with them for a while I would. They are comfortable to my foot even though they have the aggressive turned down toe. Work well in all the situations that I have used them.
Mike
|
|
|
|
|
davey569
Cut-loose Expert
Posts 199
Points 200
|
|
|
i wear quechuas but it all comes down to what you want. do you want comfort? style? performance? what climing do you do? all of these things can alter the type or make of shoe you wear. first thing to do is find out what climbing you do, do you want a shoe for bouldering? do you want a boot for long multi-pitch climbs? do you want velcro shoes for speed? or laces for tightness? go to a good store with an extreemly wide range of shoes and experts that know what to say when you ask them these questions, but a good expert will not tell you ''this is the shoe you want'' that is wrong they should say ''these are the shoes you may be looking for'' its all about personal preference, dont just buy the cheapest or even the most expensive, buy the ones that A; suit you best being comfortable on the crag and B; suit your style best by being adapted to the climbing you will do.
i hope this helps and remember when it comes to gear (not just shoes) its up to you to decide what you need.
dave
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
Yes, for shoes I would definitely say try them on before you buy them and wear them for 20-30 minutes if at all possible.
A lot of the climbing stores around here have little mini-walls so that you can try on the shoes and then actually step on the rock with them to see how they feel.
Nothing is worse than a pair of shoes that hurt your feet. Climbing will go from something you love to something you hate quickly.
Mike
|
|
|
|
|
davey569
Cut-loose Expert
Posts 199
Points 200
|
|
|
true mike some nice advice there. over here were not allowed to go on walls as such but i climb on shelves and seats at the stores (as long as no ones watching) and this gives me an idea.
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
Everybody has there shoe that they like and thats the way it should be, but even if your a beginner, spend a little extra and get the best shoe you can buy. Your first shoes are just as important as your 5th, but that does'nt mean you have to buy the most expensive. My first shoe was the red and blue Boreal Aces, the first Aces they made and they are a great technicle shoe for face climbing. I have a two pairs of Mad Rocks and the Flash ( velcro ) are the best of the two, even though I'm not a big fan of velcro shoes, and the Pheonix are ok.........just ok. Moccosyms ( slippers ) are a good choice for bouldering , and are versatile enough for trad. Climber Steph Davis told me she likes a moccosym a size too big for trad, But as with all slippers, they ware out faster than a good stiff board lasted shoe like the Tradmaster. Just an idea, but the choice is yours of coarse, just try to make it a good one!! And CLIMB ON!!
|
|
|
|
|
tbogh
Gumby
Posts 20
Points 20
|
|
|
thanks all, thats some pretty solid advice. its nice to hear all of your advice because you all know what your doing and have been there before. i think i'm going to go with la sportiva's mythos. my buddy has a pair that i tried on, even though it wasn't the exact size i need, they still felt good. travis
|
|
|
|
|
adrew
Belay Test Passer
Posts 3
Points 3
|
|
|
Hi Im looking for climbing shoes this will be my first pair because i have borrowed or hired them before ive seen a pair of 5.10 Anasazi slippers any good ? thanks andy
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
 | bradkillough posted the following on Sunday 30th March 2008 , and the Pheonix are ok.........just ok. |  |
|
I will definatly agree, I was out this weekend(more on this later) and I felt like I was not getting the friction out of them that I felt was needed.
|
|
|
|
|
chilli
Technical Climber
Posts 194
Points 194
|
|
|
 | tbogh posted the following on Monday 31st March 2008 ...i think i'm going to go with la sportiva's mythos... |  |
|
mythos stretch a bit; just so you know. don't by super-small (and don't
EVER buy a truly uncomfortably tight shoe), but make sure that they're
snug if they're new, because they will stretch a bit.
 | adrew posted the following on Monday 31st March 2008 ive seen a pair of 5.10 Anasazi slippers any good ? |  |
|
if you're just getting into climbing the best
thing you can do is get yourself some good shoes that you could wear on
the rock all day long. i can't personally speak to how good slippers
may be, because i'm a fan of lace-ups (or velcro for bouldering or TR).
but i CAN tell you that my first pair were comfly and i was ok to be in
them for a while without any aching toes. a lot of people (especially
those who like gym/boulder/sport climbing) tend to try and buy shoes
that are overly tight the first time around, and it just ends up
uncomfortable. keeeping that tip in mind, i've heard good things about
anasazis from friends. 
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
The Pheonix are not my favorite shoe, I mean when you buy a new pair, you can take a lite piece of sandpaper and buf the sheen ( shiney part on the rubber ) off and they usually stick pretty good after a few climbs, but not the Pheonix. The flash are great for climbing, but I'm not a big fan of velcro-slippers.
 | tbogh posted the following on Monday 31st March 2008
thanks all, thats
some pretty solid advice. its nice to hear all of your advice because
you all know what your doing and have been there before. i think i'm
going to go with la sportiva's mythos. my buddy has a pair that i tried
on, even though it wasn't the exact size i need, they still felt good.
travis |  |
|
My
son has got a pair of mythos and he loves them. They have a great
technicle toe and are really comfortable!! The new color and slight
design change are nice also.
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
Does anyone know about the 5.10 Pitons, I know that they are designed for Trad. but doeas that limit them only to Trad?
|
|
|
|
|
tbogh
Gumby
Posts 20
Points 20
|
|
|
thanks for all of the good info. it really helps hearing it from the pros themselves
travis
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
 | herothezero1 posted the following on Friday 4th April 2008 Does anyone know about the 5.10 Pitons, I know that they are designed for Trad. but doeas that limit them only to Trad?
|  |
|
No, they are (first), "climbing shoes" and recomended for trad and they may be best suited for trad, but you can wear them on other climbs.
|
|
|
|
|