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Saturday 16th May 2009 at 1:12:35 PM
Rank: Belay Test Passer
#Posts: 6
#Points: 6
If you are new to the sport of rock climbing, climbing shoes will be one of the first investments you make. Here are some things to remember when choosing your shoes.
Unlined leather shoes will stretch a little and are usually cooler than lined shoes which will stretch less. Synthetic shoes generally will not stretch.
Currently there are three basic styles on the market: laces, hook & loop (Velcro), and slip-on.
Lace-up shoes: Pros
* better fit
* more ability to adjust snugness
* a tighter shoe can help reduce the swelling of a sprained ankle (it's true!)
Lace-up shoes: Cons
* takes more time to put on and take off
* some people step on longer laces, but you should just cut them if they are too long
Hook & Loop: Pros
* can be put on and taken off more quickly
* you can still adjust the tightness, just not as much as you can with laces
Hook & Loop: Cons
* sometimes the Velcro can wear out and become loose
Slip-on shoes: Pros
* very quick to get on and off
* no worries about snagging laces or Velcro closures
Slip-on shoes: Cons
* adjusting the fit is impossible
* not usually ideal for crack climbing
The most important factor when choosing your shoes is fit. It you're uncomfortable in your shoes, nothing else matters. A properly fitted shoe will ideally be touching every part of your foot. There will be no gaps at the heel or toes. In fact your toes should be just slightly curved when your shoe is fastened on your foot. Go to a gear store and try shoes on. If you don't have a store near by, then do all you can to "try before you buy." Don't buy shoes online unless you know for certain that you are getting shoes that will fit you. You can't trust the number on a shoe claiming it is a certain size. You must try them on [b]your feet[/b]. And keep in mind that it is common for most people to have one foot that is slightly larger than the other one. Good luck.
Becknology Rock Climbing Guides
www.becknology.com
Monday 18th May 2009 at 8:54:26 AM
Rank: Cut-loose Expert
#Posts: 280
#Points: 280
i would tempted to add a few details, especially to beginners, regarding shoes...
1. fairly non-aggressive (reasonably flat soled) slip lasted shoes are probably a good bet for a beginner, since they will be most likely to provide all day comfort (which is absolutely KEY to a novice, since they'll probably be in them for a while).
2. some disciplines of climbing tend to find that some shoes lend themselves better to a specific shoe type (i.e. bouldering and down-cambered shoes), but typically this will be something of interest of investment AFTER the first pair (i.e. a second bouldering/sport specific pair of shoes)
3. i understand your desire to avoid speaking to stretch of leather versus the lack thereof in synthetics (especially considering brand differences), but for the nice-fit-connoisseur, it is definitely worth knowing that some leather shoes will stretch significantly while some will have a less dramatic stretch, but will be there all the same. this is a place where it's handy to do some research into the construction and brand specifics of the shoe you want.
thanks for the article beck!
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Mike: can we make "sticky's" out of forum posts like this? or should they be posted, edited, then written up as an article on the site?