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Webbing vs. Slings

Tuesday 9th June 2009 at 2:58:36 PM

Kuzy
Rank: Belay Test Passer
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This may be a stupid question, but I know slings can be used as self equalizing anchors when topping, but would a piece of 1in. webbing tied with a water knot be sufficient? 
 
 
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Thursday 11th June 2009 at 12:38:48 PM

chilli
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it's a perfectly fine question.  i can tell you're trying to keep safety in mind.
that'd work fine (as long as you leave several inches of tail from the water knot - for slippage)). in fact, that was the original sling.  where do you think someone came up with the idea to start bartacking webbing into slings?
 
 
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Thursday 11th June 2009 at 2:38:18 PM

Kuzy
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Good point! Also, would one be fine or should I double up on the webbing? I know I'm supposed to use two carabiners for safety where the rope attaches, but would it be wise to do the same with the webbing?
 
 
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Friday 12th June 2009 at 11:30:59 AM

chilli
Rank: Cut-loose Expert
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i’m not sure that I understand your question, so i’ll just answer the best i can. using one or more kind of depends on your anchor configuration. if you were running off of a couple of anchors (bolts or legs running from two natural anchors) in a sliding-x, then you’re fine using one piece of webbing. you could also use two separate pieces of webbing from your two anchor points to meet at a master point. just remember whatever the configuration is that you’re using, you want redundancy (i.e. you want the other leg to catch the rope if one leg blows out). so if you’re using a single piece in a sliding-x, then make sure you tie limiter knots. if you’re using two pieces of webbing from two separate points, then you already have your redundancy (but it’s a pain to equalize if you’re doing it like that).
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if, on the other hand, your question is whether or not you should have two pieces of webbing doing the same job and one only serves as backup, then the answer is no. that’s a waste of time and resources.
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personally, for natural anchors, i prefer to avoid using webbing/slings in my master point all together, and use 11mm static line in a USSR for top rope. for bolts i like to use a quad-rig from my cordalette for TR. but that’s just personal preference and plenty of people would argue another way. you’ll figure out which setups are your favorites for whichever situations over time. just always make sure they’re SRENE (solid, redundant, equalized, no extension).
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hope that helps a bit. if i still haven't answered you're question, then please let me know the specifics of your rig, so i can get a mental picture.
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if you really want to learn a lot about the best techniques in anchor setup, then check out john long's book: "anchors 2nd ed."
 
 
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