davey569
Cut-loose Expert
Posts 199
Points 200
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starting to build up my trad kit and i was wandering what range of nuts/chocks i should get to start me off.
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chilli
Technical Climber
Posts 194
Points 194
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2 sets of nuts/stoppers.
BD sells a pack of nuts. get one of theirs and some rocks, curve nuts, or some other brand. or just get two sets of the same brand. for nuts it really doesn't matter that much in MY personal opinion. some people will tell you to get one set re-curved or 'pocketed' (like DMM wallnuts) and one set like BD's, because the re-curved will set in places your others won't, but i've never noticed a difference.
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as a more general tip, i'll tell you the best way to get placement practice is to restrict yourself to passive pro for a while before you start plugging cams (practice placing nuts on a route on TR for a bit). it's a bit slow going at first, but you'll be glad you did later.
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It is a must you learn how to handle your nuts.
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chilli
Technical Climber
Posts 194
Points 194
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 well spoken, hero. unfortunately my gf borrowed mine a while ago and i haven't seen them since. so much for practice (j/k)
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davey569
Cut-loose Expert
Posts 199
Points 200
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great, ill be able to buy some in a few weeks when i get paid.
another thing, how do i now if they are in well? to i pop them in snug and tug them to see if they move? or do they have to have some give?
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 Hero,
They seat well and they conform to the rock well, just give-em a tug downward .
Hope that helps.
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Nuts only seat well in cracks with constirctions. My advice would be to place some at low levels and tug on them hang on them and see how well each set up works with multi-directional forces. When you slot a nut (at least so far in my training) it is fairly obvious if it has been placed well. It just feels and even sounds solid when you test it.
I've set em' up now somebody else knockvem' down.
Heath
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davey569
Cut-loose Expert
Posts 199
Points 200
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thanks, some good advice. what about removing them, is it hard if they have been jammed in by a fall? i dont really want to lose them first time i climb.
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chilli
Technical Climber
Posts 194
Points 194
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hero hit the nail on the head. a nut just feels and looks right when well seated. it should make maximum contact with the rock in a constricting crack. my suggestion for learning a lot about the conceptual aspect is to buy John Long's Anchors 2nd ed. book. then get out and practice the principles. it's one of those things that you'll understand when you see/feel it.
i wouldn't tug too hard on it though, or hang on it, unless your aiding. a good tug to seat it will do the trick, but too hard and it's a little more difficult to get back out. all you really want to do with a tug is seat the nut well enough that the rope drag won't wiggle it out. a fall or a really hard tug will seat it in the rock so well that you'll have to use a nut tool to get it out. i've not yet encountered a nut placed by any of my climbing partners that i couldn't remove with a tool. that said, it IS possible to fall hard and really wedge one (still probably possible to get i out, but a real burden). i have seen a nut left behind from someone else because it was really jammed, but it's pretty rare.
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davey569
Cut-loose Expert
Posts 199
Points 200
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thats good then, the last thing i wanted was to spend money on gear i would lose. is john long related to steve long by any chance?
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He's old man Long's boy.
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