Rappeling with a Figure 8 device. - General Rock Climbing Forum

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Rappeling with a Figure 8 device.

Monday 12th January 2009 at 10:51:09 PM

kassysimon
Rank: Belay Test Passer
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I remember my first abseil lesson using a Figure 8 - "The sausages go IN the frypan and around the handle" - so the rope goes down through the big ring and up over the little ring. This is how i have always done it.

But in viewing the Petzl and Black Diamond user manuals for Figure 8's, i found a stunning contradiction.

Black Diamond shows the rope going DOWN through the big ring whilst Petzl illustrates the rope coming UP through the big ring and down over the little ring.

Does it really make a difference which way it is done?

Which way do you do it?

Here are the links

http://www.blackdiamondequipment.com/pdf/s08/MM5853_F_Belay_devicesWEB.pdf

http://en.petzl.com/ProduitsServices/D01D02%20HUITD01600-G_1.pdf

Thanks

Tuesday 13th January 2009 at 9:09:13 AM

RockRat2008
Rank: Super Member
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Good morning,

I didn't find the pictures on the Petzel website to be as clear as the Black Diamond website but as best I could tell the pictures actually set up the figure 8 the same way.

Regardless, I always set mine up the way that the Black Diamond website shows there figure 8 set up when I use one for rappelling.

Tuesday 13th January 2009 at 11:34:28 PM

herothezero1
Rank: Cut-loose Expert
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It does not make a diferance at all just as long the brake side is the side you want it on.

Thursday 15th January 2009 at 8:33:49 PM

onthe_edge
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i agree with herothezero... however, i admit this process seems really confusing even for me when i was a beginner.. ha ha ha

Thursday 23rd April 2009 at 8:32:30 AM

Becknology
Rank: Belay Test Passer
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It's better to come up from the bottom and finish with the rope laying on the top. The reason for this is it is less likely to snag while going over a ledge and turn into a girth hitch.

But why would anyone still be using a figure 8 device anyway? Throw that thing away and get a tube device (ATC)!

Becknology Rock Climbing Guides
www.Becknology.com

Saturday 2nd May 2009 at 12:16:49 AM

Rogerlarock
Rank: Belay Test Passer
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Well, seems like the bight is supposed to come up through the big hole. However, figure 8's really aren't good for the rope and I think have largely fallen out of use except in certain situations. Hope this helps.

Saturday 2nd May 2009 at 10:32:24 AM

chilli
Rank: Cut-loose Expert
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the truth is that the two companies depict it two different ways because it really doesn't matter. as long as you are aware of the orientation of the rope and device, have a habit of running the bight that is consistent (to lessen the chances of a mistake), and you maintain proper rope management during the rap; then you don't have to worry about girth hitching, tangled lines (despite the fact that they are known to twist ropes a bit) or a jerky descent. personally i long ago gave it up for an ATC, but fig-8's are a very effective rap device and remain the standard for rescue crews for a reason.

Sunday 21st June 2009 at 6:25:56 AM

SilviaFitz
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Hi,

I have to disagree with some of the contributors here and say that it does matter which way the Fig 8 is threaded.

The should be configured as in the BD pdf. because this this method places the loop of rope that goes around the stem of the Figure-8 on the top, reducing the risk of forming an accidental Lark�s Foot hitch when going over an edge or an overhang.

It is strange that Petzl get this wrong because their information is normally really good.

I know that the chances of this happening are slim, but I have seen it happen and when that person happens to be a beginner, hanging in space with no prusics then suddenly things get a bit more serious.

Silvia Fitzpatrick
Rock Climbing Company

Thursday 25th June 2009 at 5:57:28 PM

chilli
Rank: Cut-loose Expert
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i've not had (nor have any of my climbing partners or friends involved in WilFR) any problems getting a snag on a ledge and causing this problem... BUT i am certainly not one to argue against taking an extra measure in safety, especially since sticking to threading in one direction would only increase the practice of a routine pattern of setting up a rap device. so i'd say this suggestion certainly doesn't sound like a bad idea at all.

thanks

Thursday 25th June 2009 at 6:01:03 PM

chilli
Rank: Cut-loose Expert
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as an aside, what the heck is up with this new look of abc? this page design is not nearly as convenient as the old one. and apparently, a bit glitchy too. :(

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