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O.k . So I went out this weekendand realized that I have bad technique, poor strength and low stamina. Other than that it was a great time. I lead a couple of 8's, fell on some 9's, and got schooled on a 10b. I really need to work on balance, energy conservation, and slopers(I hate slopers). It was a great learning experience, the weather was great, and above all we had alot of fun. Oh, and I also got a better idea of what each grade feels like.
So on that note does anyone have any words of wisdom, and or good weekend stories?
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ffemt
Technical Climber
Posts 159
Points 189
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I'd say Enjoy your climbing and not to be so hard on yourself. Harder climbs will come with time.
Mike
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It's not so much being hard on myself, it's more knowing where my limits are and where to place my goals for improvement.
Heath
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 It will work out fine, just stay at it. Thats the best way to know where you stand, is to fail at first. Learning to fall on a lead is the best to gain trust in yourself and gain confidence. Just don't give up.
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Thanks, I am going out Sunday and I have a whole new game plan, aim low.
Heath
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Heath,
I don't remember if you are a gym climber or not? That was a reality check for me years ago when I made my first outdoor trip.
Indoor climbing, where routes are taped, you know where you are going. So even though the route may be a high degree of difficulty you have the benefit of at least knowing where the next handhold is. Outdoors, unless there is still chalk on the rock you have to figure out the moves on your own which adds a new level of difficulty.
Ultimately though, it is all about enjoying the climbing and not how hard the routes are that you climb. It sounds like you got that part right!
Mike
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Alot of times I've went out thinking, I'm going to climb that 5.10 I saw last time out. When I get on it, I can tell right away that its just not going to happen today. So then I step off to maybe a 5.9 or maybe a 5.8 . In other words your not going to climb as good some days than other days. The biggest thing is when you have those bad days, don't sweat it and just climb below your level. Climb because you love to climb!
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ffemt
Technical Climber
Posts 159
Points 189
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For me it's about messing with the other route settings at our gym. I skip as many holds as I can. Tell them their route is a .8 when they are going for a .10+. Kidding, Most of all I have fun with what I am doing. In a gym that include introducing people to climbing and talking to others.
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That is just great Mike, sounds like fun!!
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Mike,
I have never climbed in gym before but wish there was one close by. The last thing the anyone need to worry about me is taking the sport to seriously. As far as grades go, the only reason I even care what a route is graded is so I know if it is in my range. I have enjoyed every 6 as much as any 9.
Heath
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I know what you mean Heath, it is nice to know what routes are in your range of ability.
I haven't seen as many problems in it with the outdoor routes I've climbed, ratings have seemed pretty consistent, but going gym to gym as I travel I've seen some huge variances.
Within the same month I have been in 3 different gyms before where I could climb 5.9 in one gym (and struggled to get that), 5.10 b/c in another gym, and high 5.11 in another.
All in all though, I just figure out where the ratings are climb at my level for that gym and enjoy it regardless.
Mike
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ffemt
Technical Climber
Posts 159
Points 189
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That's the problem with ratings. They are subjective. Route setters in gyms need to travel around indoor and outdoors to get ideas. It also gives them an idea of what others are calling 5.x vs 5.y...
Our gym is having a route setting clinic coming up in a couple of weeks with 2 setters that have worked at setting routes from local to national level competitions. I'm really looking forward to it.
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