endurance training - Techniques & Training Forum

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endurance training

Wednesday 4th July 2007 at 8:47:12 PM

monkey
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guys, from your experience, what is the most efficient way of endurance training that will show results in a short period of time? any form of insight would be great.

Wednesday 4th July 2007 at 8:55:35 PM

spiderguy
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again, practice makes perfect. you simply have to get used to the activity.

Wednesday 4th July 2007 at 10:44:16 PM

slippery
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before i say anything, let me just ask, is there a problem with your climbing? what makes you think you need endurance training? maybe if you gave us more details, we can be more helpful

Thursday 5th July 2007 at 12:15:08 AM

monkey
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um, first, i figured that my heart rate doubles in no time and my muscles feel strained along with it

Thursday 5th July 2007 at 1:03:58 AM

adrenaline
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have you tried changing your technique? that must be it.

Life happens too fast for you ever to think about it. If you could just persuade people of this, but they insist on amassing information.

Wednesday 1st August 2007 at 9:37:40 AM

davey569
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have you tried bouldring round your local room? that works quite well to build up endurance, but once again it takes a while to see an impovement these things dont happen over night, you must work hard

Sunday 5th August 2007 at 11:53:14 PM

marcus22
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i enjoy reading everything you guys posted here. i am new to climbing and i am definitely getting pointers from your discussion.

Wednesday 15th August 2007 at 9:18:28 AM

cenewgent
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i'm new to climbing as well. i break a sweat super quick, and my arms only hold out a good hour or so before i feel spent. i think this just comes with the territory of being a new climber and getting used to the activity. you can't pick up jogging and expect to run a marathon after a couple weeks, you know?

but, a tip that a guy at my local gym shot me that added a good half-hour to my climbing time each session was to be careful of overgripping. i guess it's a pretty noob thing to do and wears a person out more than anything. also, the standard, hang from your bones, not your muscles. after the guy at my gym dropped me this advice and i really started concentrating on these technique issues, i noticed my "edurance" nearly doubled, simply because i was climbing more correctly.

Oh, what am I to think
of what the writing of a thousand lifetimes
could not explain
if all the forest trees were pens
and all the oceans - ink?

Friday 9th November 2007 at 3:53:24 PM

chilli
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you're definitely on the right track, cenewgent.

monkey: the best way to improve your endurance, is not actually to work on the endurance itself, but to work on your technique. there's an endless list of techniques that are appropriate for different conditions/grades/situations; but with patience (and hopefully someboody to offer some pointers) you'll find that the little changes in technique will add up fast. cenewgent offered some good pointers for a few ways to conserve your arms. i think that the most general (and effective) piece of advice (that we've all heard many times) is that: the more you can bear on your legs, and the less on your arms, the more endurance you'll have.

Sunday 23rd December 2007 at 10:28:43 PM

bradkillough
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Endurance comes from correct training. Weight training makes you bulkier and heavier, not stronger where it count's! I agree , that your power is in your leg's, and you should avoid overgripping, which is a common mistake that climber's make ! To stop the burning and pumped forearm's, strengthening your finger's is the ticket!! The best way to gain endurance is to boulder, because your low to the ground you can focus on training better! Start on a problem and moving very slowly from hold to hold, actually pausing for a few moment's on each hold! Climb to the top of the problem and back down and without touching the ground, start back up the same problem or move left or right of that problem and climb up again. Do this as many times as you can and eventually increase your reps. Do this until you feel the forarm burn, then step off the problem and hold your arm's up and shake them for five second's, then hold them down and shake for five second's. This proccess let's the lactate (that causes the burn) to run back to your heart and your heart clean's the lactate out of your blood! Then holding your arm's down and shaking them, let's the blood flow back into your arm's. Within a month or so you will notice a big difference in your endurance!!

Monday 8th September 2008 at 8:47:58 PM

Adizzle132
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What do you suggest for good finger strength training

Tuesday 9th September 2008 at 8:48:08 AM

RockRat2008
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First and foremost - SLOWLY AND CAREFULLY!

There are no muscles in the fingers so what you are actually strengthening and training are tendons in the fingers. Since the rest of your muscles are so much stronger it is very easy to pull too hard and pop a tendon in your finger; This is the most common rock climbing injury.

Now, climbing is the best all around way to train your fingers (and the rest of your body) for climbing. Climb the type of route you want to train for obviously. If you struggle on crimpy routes, climb crimpy routes. If you struggle on slopers then climb lots of slopers. It isn't fun, but it helps you improve!

Also, make sure you aren't overgripping the rocks; Use a light feel and just enough pressure to pull up; A lot of people hold the rocks with a death grip which will wear you out much faster.

If you have access to a chin up bar this works well:

Grip the bar in a pull up position (palms out) with just your fingers (no thumb):

Lift your feet and hang for 60 seconds

Rest 60 seconds

Lift your feet and hang for 45 seconds

Rest 45 seconds

Lift your feet and hang 30 seconds

Rest 30 seconds

Lift your feet and hang 15 seconds

Rest 15 seconds

When you can complete one set then go for 2 sets. Early on in my climbing someone turned me on to this drill and it made quick improvement in my climbing.

Mike

Thursday 11th September 2008 at 6:40:44 PM

bradkillough
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Yea, what Mike said.

Monday 16th February 2009 at 12:32:38 PM

rockape
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Thank you rockrat, Im having great difficutly completing a 5c (british/French rating) overhang 3/4 way up at the local climbing wall due to finger strength its got a really crimpy hold to pull yourself up on, your post has set me in the right direction to try and improve. I'll keep you posted on my progress.