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Good Stuff!
I do both traversing laps around one of our free standing pillars running a lap clockwise and then reversing and running a lap counterclockwise. I also will up climb and down climb routes to failure for endurance training.
Most of my climbing buddies just want to climb for fun, which is good (I'm having fun too by the way), but I can outclimb all of them in both degree of difficulty and climbing more routes before giving out.
Training has a purpose. hehe
Mike
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ffemt
Technical Climber
Posts 159
Points 189
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What does everyone do for endurance training? I've started recently with traversing for time. I'll stay on the wall going back and forth for 30 mins. Stops at a dihedral or arete aren't allowed for more than 10 seconds. If you fall off the wall 10 push-ups and back up on the wall. I've been doing this about once a week and it seems to help with my endurance. Also learning how to recover while on the wall.
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ffemt
Technical Climber
Posts 159
Points 189
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Ha, Some of our climbers have worked up to staying on the wall for 60 mins. Of course they are young and full of energy
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uv510
Belay Test Passer
Posts 9
Points 9
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Something that has always helped me is to up and down climb a route that is just below your flash ability. Do it multiple times until you totally pump out. Recover, and do it again. Keep this up until that route is to pumpy, then drop down some more grades and repeat. Keep this up until 5.2 is feeling like the burn of 15a! Be sure to focus on something else besides endurance the next day. I used to do this type of training a lot when I competed regulary. It also helped with technique as long as you climb cleanly and don't resort to flayling, Don't forget though, climbing is supposed to be fun  Forgot to add this! Do you know the bouldering game "Add on"? It is a fun way to build endurance! |
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"Focus on what's natural, don't worry about what is normal."
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Yes, we use to play that game when we first built our gym, great game for endurance.
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stoned
Gumby
Posts 23
Points 23
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when i started with my endurance training, the focus is to ward off the pump. i maintained a 3-4 number lower than my highest repoint level, even bribed a friend to be my belay slave..  did laps and really avoid pumping out. i alternate climb and belay 30 mins each. but remember to think of the upper body as well, upper muscles are usually taken for granted.. do some strengthening exercises. |
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ffemt
Technical Climber
Posts 159
Points 189
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Don't forget about your legs. Some of the sandstone slab climbs in town here are mostly legs and footwork. Arms/hands are used just for balance.
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So true, legs are your power!!!
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locorogue
Technical Climber
Posts 53
Points 53
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Just a generic post so i can be a supermember(whatever) someday, if I dream big big enough. Seriously though, sport specific training is obviously the best way to condition. But you can(obviously) also achieve specific 'muscle endurance' in the gym or at home. If you belong to a decent gym, maybe a trainer can do a simple Vo2max stress test for you, you can do one as well at home. I always tell clients 'how do you know where you are if you don't know where you've been"? If you're serious and want to guage, and/or track your progress, then you may as well learn some simple steps. Give me a holler if you need further detail, i figured if someone is serious then they can contact me, rather than me rambling on.
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Actually to be a supermember you have to prove you have extensive knowledge of a particular subject, which you have yet to do.
However, keep reading our forums here and you might actually learn enough to be one someday.
Mike
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 | RockRat2008 posted the following on Friday 30th May 2008
Actually to be a supermember you have to prove you have extensive knowledge of a particular subject, which you have yet to do.
However, keep reading our forums here and you might actually learn enough to be one someday.
Mike |  |
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Thanks! Well said!!!!
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To coin a phrase from a good friend of mine ...
Thanks, I try.
Mike
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Yes you do, kind sir!
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From a therapeutic recreation perspective, cross-training may also greatly improve stamina. For example, I have experienced for myself how agressive mountain biking improves my climbing stamina and vise-versa.
Weight training in combination with sprint-climbing can also greatly improve stamina. This is because the weight training pushes your muscles to the point of exhaustion and then an immediate sprint up and down helps to push through the lactic acid threshold; which is known to drastically improve stamina over time. Also, be sure to weight train all muscle groups, especially the ones you rarely use. This can also dramatically increase strength and stamina for climbs.
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