ffemt
Technical Climber
Posts 159
Points 189
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Added some variety to my workout last night. You will want to try this on a very easy climb to start. One that has some good sized juggy holds. Crimpers could be pretty hard on fingers and tendons. You are only allowed to climb with a single arm. Don't tie your arm back or anything. That would be too dangerous. It will force you to use your legs to press up to the next hold. Also adds a dynamic touch to each upward movement since you don't have the luxury of making static moves from one handhold to another. Keep your eyes open for moves that you may not have used if you have both arms. Maybe stemming out to another wall will get you the height you need to get to that next hold. Give the same climb a try with the other arm as well.
Give it a try and let me know you think.
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Brother,
I think what ever works for you, do it. Personally I don't think its that important to push yourself too hard, eventually you will burn out. I've been where you are and I burned out, too much pressure ! You end up bored and too bulky ( stiff ). But hey, if it works for you, go for it!!!
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chilli
Technical Climber
Posts 194
Points 194
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 | ffemt posted the following on Tuesday 1st April 2008 ...Also adds a dynamic touch to each upward movement since you don't have the luxury of making static moves from one handhold to another... |  |
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i won't knock it, because i haven't tried it, but i don't think that static moves are a luxury, and i don't think dynamic moves are a goal. i've always been taught that static climbing is a cleaner, more energy efficient, and safer way to climb. the thing that i DO like about this exercise is that it would certainly make you look at a problem/route from a different perspective (a bit of mental exercise).
is this really the best exercise to improve climbing abilities? my instinct and logic say no, but i'll play around with the idea (in the gym or something) and let you know what i think before i completely dismiss it.
regardless, thanks for the input.
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ffemt
Technical Climber
Posts 159
Points 189
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I'm not sure where you think I am. I'm certainly not bulky nor stiff. Stretching is part of my workout as well. You should either try the exercises or not. But dismissing them publicly without even trying is uncalled for I think.
They were offered up as options for other to try. We use them with the climbing team I coach and our climbers like the variety and have done VERY well in competitions.
Smears/weighted - Yes, Brad. But that was a comment about Chilli saying "foot too high though".
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chilli
Technical Climber
Posts 194
Points 194
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 | chilli posted the following on Wednesday 2nd April 2008
i won't knock it, because i haven't tried it...
...my instinct and logic say no, but i'll play around with the idea (in the gym or something) and let you know what i think before i completely dismiss it.
regardless, thanks for the input. |  |
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i'm not trying to dismiss anything (or get argumentative) right off the bat (see bold above). and i certainly WILL get together with some friends and give it a shot. like i said, i DO see some benefit. but i also see other (in MY opinion) more productive methods of training (especially versus single leg thing, but that's another thread).
but like i said, i'm not one to blow off a new idea; but just present what i see as flaws; perhaps for clarification, and perhaps for improvment (or maybe i just need to learn a thing or two)
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 | ffemt posted the following on Wednesday 2nd April 2008 I'm not sure where you think I am. I'm certainly not bulky nor stiff. Stretching is part of my workout as well. You should either try the exercises or not. But dismissing them publicly without even trying is uncalled for I think. They were offered up as options for other to try. We use them with the climbing team I coach and our climbers like the variety and have done VERY well in competitions.
Smears/weighted - Yes, Brad. But that was a comment about Chilli saying "foot too high though".
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Brother, no one is trying to put down or discard anything you add. Sorry if I hurt your feelings or pride. I have been teaching for a long time and I am a supermember for this site because of my experience, and I certanly don't know everything. I know what works for me and I've made mistakes in training! So you need not take my "OPINIONS" to heart, I'm not hear to argue and, not going to. I hope you understand. Sorry if it sounded argumentitive. Peace!
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This is another one I have used for years to vary training over time and can say that I have seen benefit from it.
The primary ones being route analysis and balance; Not to mention it is fun to see if you can climb higher than your buddy if he doesn't finish the route. :)
Mike
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