ffemt
Technical Climber
Posts 159
Points 189
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Now that you've tried both the one arm and one leg workouts. You did try them didn't you? It's time to work on improving foot smearing. With smearing you want to maximize the amount of contact with the wall/rock and the bottom of your foot. Flexibility helps a lot here.
For this exercise pick a climb a grade or two down from your highest level. Something vertical or less is better. Overhangs and roofs are difficult to impossible to foot smear. To smear better you want to bring your foot up pretty high. Above knee level of the other leg is best. Press your foot against the wall bringing your hips out away from the wall. This will allow you to have maximum contact with the wall with the bottom of your foot. It will just the front half of your foot that will be contacting the wall. Not your heel. Climb it with just smearing the right foot. Repeat the climb with your left.
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 I don't think it is that impairative to actually train too hard on smearing, because smearing has alot to do with your balance with ease and the shoe. Because, not all climbing shoes are good for smearing, especially one with a technicle toe.
Just try traversing back and forth on a wall or slab, that should do it!!
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chilli
Cut-loose Expert
Posts 205
Points 205
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 | ffemt posted the following on Tuesday 1st April 2008
...It's time to work on improving foot smearing... |  |
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i can see the merit in this one. i have actually put my gf on a slab climb and told her to practice smearing because she was so uncomfortable with the position (especially the butt out part). we didn't practice one foot smears and then the other though. we had a "just do it whenever you can" kind of approach (i.e. every couple of moves). it was basically a one time exercise, and she's got it down now.
| ffemt posted the following on Tuesday 1st April 2008
...To smear better you want to bring your foot up pretty high. Above knee level of the other leg is best....
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i'd be careful making a suggestion to always place your foot too high though. smearing placement depends on many factors. your bit about the "hips out" is too true though. i think that's a tough concept for some people.
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ffemt
Technical Climber
Posts 159
Points 189
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I have a picture of my daughter doing a left foot smear outdoor from the local paper. In the picture her foot is past her hip. She had to pull herself up before it really became effective, but any lower and her foot slid away and did no good to her on that move. That's not to say that every smear is going be that high. In addition it's typically useless at shin level or below. Just not able to get enough contact with the bottom of your foot.
ALL of these techniques are used with the climbing team I coach to mix up workouts. They work for our team. Your mileage may vary.
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All smeares work from being weighted, thats why she had to pull up on that hold for the smear to work, does that make sense?
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chilli
Cut-loose Expert
Posts 205
Points 205
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| ffemt posted the following on Wednesday 2nd April 2008
...That's not to say that every smear is going be that high. In addition it's typically useless at shin level or below. Just not able to get enough contact with the bottom of your foot... | |
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like i said, conditions in which you apply a proper smear vary with conditions and goals (not to mention balancing the need for remaining friction on the other foot and body position).
| ffemt posted the following on Wednesday 2nd April 2008
...ALL of these techniques are used with the climbing team I coach to mix up workouts. They work for our team. Your mileage may vary. | |
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like i said, i'll give it a shot, and i think your smearing idea has merit, but the one-legged thing just seems a bit over the top. but again, i stress the point that (like i said) i don't want to dismiss it completely until giving it a shot a few times.
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Smearing, now hear is a technique that is vital to good climbing as you progress. We will do training where you get on a lower graded route and smear the entire route top to bottom.
Although with good balance and technique you can smear at shin level; Been there done that!
Mike
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ffemt
Technical Climber
Posts 159
Points 189
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RockRat2008 posted the following on Friday 4th April 2008
Although with good balance and technique you can smear at shin level; Been there done that!
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And flexibility
With the smearing workout I don't think I mentioned your other foot would be using regular foot holds. Although if you wanted to make it harder you could smear both feet instead of using holds. Recommended climbing several level below your level.
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Granite or limestone are great for smearing. Boat Rock in Atlanta Ga. is a good place to learn smearing.
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