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Tortured...

Thursday 6th March 2008 at 11:19:34 PM

_shadow_
Rank: Technical Climber
#Posts: 72
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Guys,

I was literally tortured by my instructor......it lasted for 2 hrs, its worst I have experienced. I could hardly hold my steering wheel on the way back home.

Is this the normal 'conditioning' method to improve climbing? or am I being bullied?

regards

Friday 7th March 2008 at 7:56:13 AM

davey569
Rank: Cut-loose Expert
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what did he make you do? tbh it could be a good thing if you got worn out alot, it can build your stamina and muscle mass.

Friday 7th March 2008 at 9:19:11 AM

_shadow_
Rank: Technical Climber
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Davey,

Started with a few drop knee practise, then over to the bouldering section for over hang traverse training again and again and again....then over to the 'auto' wall for 3 laps.

I was totally worn out..... I don't mean torture in a bad way, just figuratively speaking.

regards

Friday 7th March 2008 at 10:24:10 AM

RockRat2008
Rank: Super Member
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Shadow,

Ultimately you know your body and what you can, or can't handle, and will have to be the final judge of it. Which a lot of will be "How do you feel today?" :)

The morning after can tell you a lot about how extreme a workout is. Most nights when I leave the rock gym I'm not real happy about holding on to my steering wheel. LOL

I personally don't advocate pushing too hard too fast for brand new beginners because climbing causes you to use muscles you aren't used to using and that creates a higher risk of injury.

Personally, I don't think the workout sounded out of line if you are capable of handling it. As I have stated before, when I climb now I climb hard for approximately 2 hours with at least 5 routes in the 5.10-5.11 range and then burn out to failure lapping a 5.6 or 5.7 up climbing and down climbing. After that it is two sets of pull-ups to failure as well.

Mike

Friday 7th March 2008 at 10:54:02 PM

_shadow_
Rank: Technical Climber
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Mike,

Thanks for the feedback. Sounds like its 'normal' to be 'worn out' to that level. Its the shoulders, forearms and fingers that suffers the most as its the ones getting all the workout.

Overall, I have lost 2Kgs of weight (abt 4.4 lbs) since I started a month back, so I guess its working well.

regards

Saturday 8th March 2008 at 11:56:02 AM

davey569
Rank: Cut-loose Expert
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you wont fell as bad after a few workouts, you will get used to it. hows your muscle mass?

Saturday 8th March 2008 at 5:56:17 PM

RockRat2008
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Yeah, 4.4 lbs in a month is just over 1 lb a week which is a good rate to be dropping weight. Congratulations.

Give it a few more workouts and your body will adjust; Then if you're like me you'll just push a little harder so you will stay just as sore but work harder.

Sounds like you're doing great so far! Keep it up.

Mike

Sunday 9th March 2008 at 5:22:47 AM

_shadow_
Rank: Technical Climber
#Posts: 72
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Davey,

Estimated about 17% body fat as I'm 5'8", weigh 170 lbs with a waist of 33. Target weight would be 154 lbs, still got a long way to go.

regards

Monday 10th March 2008 at 10:03:51 AM

RockRat2008
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Be careful with most guides that give you a target weight; They are generally using guidelines for "average" men or women with average activity levels and diets.

As a climber you should lean up (lose fat) but you will add on a lot of lean muscle mass as well and muscle weighs more than fat which will skew those numbers. I'll use myself below as an example of what I'm talking about.

I'm 5'10", and the guidelines I've looked at have my low weight at 141 lbs, my high weight at 179 lbs, and my ideal body weight at 160 lbs.

Right now I weigh 190, but have a lot of lean muscle mass so their stats contradict themselves.

They calculate my BMI (Body Mass Index) at 27.6% and 27.8% is considered obese!

However, my body fat percentage is at 9.7% and the ADA (American Dietetic Association) recommends that the average male body fat be between 15-18%.

So on the one hand they are telling me I'm OBESE and on the other hand they are telling me I have less than average body fat.

I have been as low as 185, and really like being at that weight, but I sure don't want to get any leaner than that under any circumstances.

A good guide is to go with how you feel at a given weight, how you look at a given weight, and consult with your doctor as well.

Mike

Monday 10th March 2008 at 2:23:33 PM

davey569
Rank: Cut-loose Expert
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im slightly underweight for most guideline charts, but im the same height as you. i have tried however to increase body mass but apparently i have a quick matabalism which means i wont fill out till im about 26. you will be fine though im sure, i wouldnt worry too much aslong as you listen to what your instructor tells you. they know, otherwise they wouldnt be able to teach.

Monday 10th March 2008 at 3:09:30 PM

RockRat2008
Rank: Super Member
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Enjoy that quick burning metabolism while you can Davey.

At 40, I'm really wishing I still had mine and am using all the tricks I can to keep mine burning as quickly as possible now. hehe

Mike

Monday 10th March 2008 at 7:54:13 PM

_shadow_
Rank: Technical Climber
#Posts: 72
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Mike,

You are right on most of the 'calculators' out there. Thanks for the tip on the 'how you feel' gauge, I'll use this!

I'm 35 and think hitting 154 lbs will be tough, but I'll 'see' progress along the way and probly stop if I have the 'feel' factor satisfactory.

regards

Tuesday 11th March 2008 at 7:46:10 AM

davey569
Rank: Cut-loose Expert
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hehe, ill enter all the eating contests i can then mike!

Tuesday 11th March 2008 at 8:49:16 AM

RockRat2008
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LOL @ Davey

I used to eat an entire large pizza by myself and not think about it. Now, when I do eat pizza it is like ok, you've had 2 slices and that is plenty. If you're still hungry, grab a salad. hehe

Mike

Wednesday 26th March 2008 at 8:22:27 PM

ffemt
Rank: Technical Climber
#Posts: 159
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RockRat2008, I hear you. Used to be able to whole large pizza with a pitcher of beer. Of course I was speedskating and racing bicyles back then and burning it off as fast as I could eat. It wasn't often that I got invited over for dinner. I ate too much back then. When I stopped competing I learned to curb my appetite as well. Otherwise I would have balloned up like a Sumo wrestler. Those were the good old days.

_Shadow_, As long as your not getting injured your level of workouts are ok. Muscle soreness is good. Injuries are bad. Knowing when your about to cross that line, priceless.

Mike

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