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How long do you climb until you really notice an added strength in your fingers, if your climbing consistently?
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depends on how frequent you climb and what your routine is. i'd say a month or so. and this is really frequent ok?
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what's with your hands benner? just curious. you seem to be
too fascinated with your fingers (bec of your other inquiry about your
fingertips). i think you better think of how not to get your hands sore first
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 The best way to gain finger strength is to get on a boulder problem that is about a grade smaller or so, and do lap's without stepping off the problem. When you do this move slowly, actually hanging on each hold for a few moment's before moving on to the next hold. If you stay at it, you will notice a vast improvement in your finger strength and your confidence!! In the future look for the forum on Ask a super member and I will get you an answer!
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bradkillough posted the following on Friday 7th December 2007
The best way to gain finger strength is to get on a boulder problem that is about a grade smaller or so, and do lap's without stepping off the problem. When you do this move slowly, actually hanging on each hold for a few moment's before moving on to the next hold. If you stay at it, you will notice a vast improvement in your finger strength and your confidence!! In the future look for the forum on Ask a super member and I will get you an answer!
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this is a real good elaborate advise! no wonder you're a super member..haha! thanks man
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Thank's Marcus22,
It's nice to be appreciated. I wanted to touch on training a little bit. Alot of people make the mistake of getting the idea of "bigger is better" or doing as many pull-ups as they can ,till they pass out. I'll tell you a secret: STOP!!
Weight training only makes you bulkier and heavier. And with pull-ups, i recomend a finger board, alternating from four to one finger pull-ups. Running everyday help's with endurance!! Happy Holiday's  |
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ffemt
Technical Climber
Posts 159
Points 189
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I heard this tip for increasing finger strength on some podcast. Can't recall where or I would give credit.
At the end of a climbing workout find a hold(s) that are over your head and big enough to place just a single pad of your finger. If you can find two hold next to each other even better. You want to hang from a single finger but not where your off the ground. You want to be able to control how much weight you place on each finger. Hold the hang for 15-30 seconds using as much body weight as you can handle for the time you've chosen. Change fingers and repeat. Hanging like this will increase tendon strength in your fingers which will help prevent injuries as well as improve your gripping/holding strength.
Mike
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 You heard right. The finger strength was part of a 7 sessions on training with Calvin Climber / Calvin Landrus ( The National director of a organization called Solid Rock Climbers For Christ, in which I'm am a member ) on Pod Climber radio, out of Bend Oregon w/ Larry B, a very good talk show about climbing.
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Also, don't push too hard too fast. One of the most common injuries for new climbers is popping a tendon in the fingers because they can't handle the stress that they are being put under.
Been there, done that, years ago, and although it was due to trying to catch myself when I was falling and not just climbing, and it wasn't fun.
Mike
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Yes the tendon popping happens. If you feel stinging in your fingers, thats your tendon fixing to pop.
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