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Climbing Techniques - Leading

Climbing Techniques - Leading As the name implies, Leading refers to the act of leading a climb. It is ascending while placing or attaching protection. This Climbing Technique is usually done in Lead climbing and entails a leader (one who leads the climb) and a follower.

Lead climbing is done in sections. The leader puts protection as he ascends. Once he reached the top, the second climber removes the protection as he climbs. When the follower reaches the top, they will then proceed to the second pitch.

If you have never tried leading, and you are going to lead your first route, then you will obviously be a bit anxious to start climbing without any pre-placed protection. In this section, take a look at some guidelines in Leading or lead climbing:

  • Before leading, you should know exactly how to place your extenders correctly and how to clip the rope through it. This is outlined in one of our sections as well the most common mistakes made. Please check our Back Clipping and Other Mistakes section.
  • Place protection as you ascend. Attach the rope to the protection using Carabiners.
  • Always stay calm and focused. Your aim should be to place protection as soon as possible within intervals of 1-1.5 metres.
  • If the climbing is getting too hard, remain calm and try to down climb.
  • Avoid rope drag as much as possible by placing the protection smartly and/or using the the right length of extenders.

Leading is potentially dangerous particularly to the leader since he will take the climb without any protection placed prior to the climb. It is important that both the leader and the follower know their task/s. Take the necessary preparation and safety measures before heading out.



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ARTICLE COMMENTS
Sunday 5th September 2004 at 10:51:04 PM  
climber86
Rank: Belay Test Passer
#Posts: 0   #Points: 0
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Lead climbing is a scary thing, on my first one i wasn't to scared cuz i had been pratcing by having my belayer keep me loose on top rope it helps a lot, and also if its your first lead then try and do a climb that you've done before. It helps to boost your confidence for harder leads and real redpoints.
Monday 29th October 2007 at 3:26:41 PM  
BoatTheRock
Rank: Belay Test Passer
#Posts: 1   #Points: 2
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I am buying some quickdraws today so that I can start doing some sport routes. I am nervous about it though.
Tuesday 8th April 2008 at 6:14:28 PM  
bradkillough
Rank: Super Member
#Posts: 454   #Points: 485
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You'll do fine, just relax and try to concentrate and stay focused. If you get a little freaked out, just try to breath.

Let us know how it goes okay?


 
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