How to Use Active & Passive Protection

Written by Super Member: bradkillough


This section covers valuable tips on how to use Active and Passive Protection:

Active Protection
This is the collective term for cams or friends, which operate in a mechanical aspect. In other words, these have moving parts that allow the tool to change its size to fit the same-sized crack you are climbing. Also, the sizes are different, just like the crack changes in size.

The placement or the way it fits the crack is very important. When squeezing the triggers on the cam, the size gets smaller and the best fit for that area you are placing it in is when you see the head of the cam and it resembles a pear shape (between totally open and all the way closed). When placing the cams or friends, make sure the webbing is in a downward direction (the direction you will be falling), now give it a tug and if it is placed correctly, it won't move. Before you start the climb, always equalize the first placement by placing a nut or offset at the bottom (from the opposite direction you are going) to the first piece you placed and connect the two with a short sling or webbing (using a water knot for the webbing). This keeps the zipper effect from happening. The zipper effect is when so much force is put on the first piece, it rips it out, thus causing the others to come out, which zipper upward, resulting in a potentially fatal ground fall! Always get proper instruction before trying traditional climbing!

Passive Protection
Passive gear conforms to the shape of the crack. Wedges, nuts, curved nuts, and hexes are examples of Passive Protection. These do not have working parts and to me, they fit better, and sizing is the same as cams, although they do not require moving parts.

Find the right size and with the wire loop down (the direction you are falling), place it in the crack and give it a tug, sometimes I like to attach a sling to the piece and put a little weight on it, to position it properly. These will not take a big fall as the cams will and that's where you need to know the limits of your gear - how much force that certain piece will take before it will break.


Please note that this article is written to give you an idea on how Active and Passive Pros operate. Always get proper instruction before attempting any type of climb.

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