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Rock Climbing News - Wednesday 8 February 2012
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Wednesday, 8 February 2012
Mountaineering Ireland will again be basing the 2012 Scottish Winter Meet at Inchree Centre in the Onich, between Fort William and Glen Coe in the Western Highlands of Scotland. This is a great location for Ben Nevis and the 3 sisters of Glen Coe. Inchree Centre offers a variety of accommodation including bunk houses, hostels, chalets and B+B.
Similar to the massively successful 2011 MI Summer Alpine meet, all walkers and climbers are encouraged to participate, whether on one of the instructor led training courses or on the more informal “do your own thing” basis. We hope to bring together like minded people to share in the experiences of days on the hills, evening talks and slide shows and plenty of late night discussions!
What courses are on offer?
Basic Winter Skills (self-catering) Ratio 1:6 for summer hill walkers who would like to learn basic snow skills and try winter walking for the first time Cost: €250 for 3 days (price for instruction only) (minimum number 4)
Winter Mountaineering (self-catering) Ratio 1:4 for those walkers and climbers who have done some basic winter walking and wants to try something a little more challenging, Cost: €275 for 3 days (price for instruction only) (minimum number 4)
Winter Climbing (self-catering) Ratio 1:2.Minimum of 2 people required. This course is for those who would like to tackle routes requiring the use of an axe and hammer. Previous rock climbing and winter experience required cost €450 for 3 days (price for instruction only) (minimum number 2)
Course dates
19th-21st February: Basic winter skills/Winter Mountaineering/Winter Climbing
23rd-25th February: Basic winter skills/Winter Mountaineering/Winter Climbing
source: www.mountaineering.ie
Tuesday, 7 February 2012
A Russian expedition attempting the first ascent of K2 in winter has been called off after climber Vitaly Gorelik died of heart failure in base camp. The Russian climbers had reached 7,200 meters on the south-southeast spur of the 8,611-meter peak, and Gorelik had suffered bad frostbite on his hands. Back at base camp, the team called for a helicopter evacuation, but severe winds prevented a resc
ue.
Gorelik was one of Russia's most powerful mountaineers. In 2007, he summited K2 after the first ascent of the west face. In 2009, at age 42, Gorelik and partner Gleb Sokolov completed a major new route on the north face of Peak Pobeda, the highest peak in the Tien Shan, a climb that was nominated for a Piolet d'Or.
Attempts on two other 8,000-meter peaks in Pakistan, Gasherbrum I and Nanga Parbat, are continuing.
Source: russianclimb.com
Monday, 6 February 2012
We’ve all been here. It’s a leisurely Saturday morning and you wake up realizing that you have the entire day ahead of you. No alarm clocks, no plans, no worries. But, wait. That person lying next to you might not feel the same way. Now what? Beginning Saturday, February 11th, 2012, grab your partner, get out of bed and head over to the Boston Rock Gym (BRG) for the “Saturday Morning After Specia
l” offered every Saturday beginning at 10:00AM. What better way to extend the previous evening than with a three-hour, up-close and personal “Introduction to Rock Climbing” class followed by lunch at one of the best local restaurants? Ladies, your hair is already messed up and you have just enough makeup on that you allude a natural glow. And guys? Prove to her that you’re not just another jerk that she met at the bar, and that you’re interested in actually getting to know her.
The Boston Rock Gym’s (BRG) new “morning after” special is $58 per person and includes a three-hour introduction to rock climbing class followed by lunch reservations of your choice at some of the best local restaurants including: Masa Southwest Bar & Grill (Woburn), Sea Dog Brew Pub, Beacon Grille and Joe’s American Bar & Grill (Woburn). If lunch works out, the Boston Rock Gym is also offering a free two-week membership pass and equipment rental. That’s not all…Moosejaw, online and local retailer specializing in outdoor recreation apparel is hooking everyone up with a voucher for complimentary Moosejaw t-shirts when you visit their new superstore opening 2012 in The Natick Collection winter 2012-- perfect for the next time you roll over and find yourselves in a Saturday morning haze. It’s almost like you had planned this all along. Almost…
For more information, please visit www.bostonrockgym.com.
Preregistration is necessary. Please call the Boston Rock Gym directly at (781) 935-7325 to sign up. When signing up for the class, please specify which local restaurant you would like to dine at afterwards.
Sunday, 5 February 2012
2011 marked the end of the competition career of one of Slovenia's foremost competition climbers, Natalija Gros. Born in Kranj in 1984, Gros started climbing at age 6 and began competing aged 9, first in national lead competitions and in 1994 she progressed to international competitions. In 2006 Gros decided to take part in Bouldering competitions too, and continued to compete in both disciplines
until 2011.
In total, Gros stepped onto the World Cup podium 23 times in her competition career and highlights in her career include winning three youth world championship titles, silver in the European Championships in Lecco in 2004 and gold in European Bouldering and Combined Championship in Paris in 2008. Other titles include winning the Serre Chevalier master in 2004 and 2009, bronze in the Lead World Cup 2004 as well as bronze in the Bouldering World Cups 2007 and 2009.
Gros has obviously also excelled on rock, onsighting up to 8a+. In 2002 she sent her first 8b, in 2005 she redpointed her first 8b+ - Kaj ti je deklica at Misja pec in Slovenia - while a year later it was time for her first 8c, the nearby Strelovod. At the same crag she upped the ante in March 2008 by sending Histerija 8c+ and in doing so became one of the first women to dominate this grade.
The Slovenian climber has stared in various films including "Chalk & Chocolate" which documents her 8c+ ascent, "New dimension" which explores urban style bouldering in Argentina and the short film "Le tango vertical".
During her recent end-of-career celebration the Slovenian athlete auctioned photos to raise almost 3000 euros for two charities she supports, Wings for Life and the association Friends of youth which organises climbing camps for socially disadvantaged children.
Source: www.planetmountain.com
Friday, 3 February 2012
Hee Yong Park had never taken part in the Icefight before and in Saturday's qualification he only just qualified for the Semifinal by placing 12th. Things turned out completely differently on Sunday and he finished provisional 3rd in the Semis and then produced a class performance in the Final to top out on the extremely difficult route, leaving the two Russians Alexey Dengin and Markus Tomilov i
n his wake. Markus Bendler, the Austrian who had won all previous Icefights, finished fourth. At the end of the event the winner Hee Yong Park commented "This was a really tough comp and I'm happy with my result because my opponents are really strong. In many ways the Icefight is just like a stage of the Ice Climbing World Cup."
In the women's event all eyes were on local Angelika Rainer. The climber from nearby Meran had won the first two stages of the Ice Climbing World Cup at Cheong Song (Korea) and Saas Fee (Switzerland) and many hoped the South Tyrolean would be able to win the Icefight for the third time, but in the end a mistake at the crux resulted in 3rd place overall.
Anna Gallyamova from Russia won the event and while she usually dominates the Speed discipline, on Sunday she proved that she is a force to be reckoned with in Lead, too. "Today I've finally managed to win" said the Russian "after two second places in the World Cup, right behind Angelika Rainer. I'm really satisfied and I want to congratulate the organisers for this beautiful competition in Val Passiria."
The Speed discipline was won by Alexey Tomilov from Russia who in 19:00 seconds set a new course record up the 25m high tower. His teammates Kirusha Kolshegochev and Stanislav Lobzov placed second and third respectively.
Corvara also hosted a meeting which included representative of the International Federations (UIAA), the South Tyrolean Mountaineering Club (AVS) and the organising committee, with the aim of making the Icefight a stage of the 2013 Ice World Cup and, possibly, the venue for the 2015 World Championship. "The meeting was very productive" explained organising Committee president Reinhard Graf "We'll work on this in the coming weeks and then, in spring, we'll make a decision."
Marmot ICEFIGHT 2012:
Male Difficulty:
1. Hee Yong Park (Korea)
2. Alexey Dengin (Russia)
3. Maxim Tomilov (Russia)
Female Difficulty:
1. Anna Gallyamova (Russia)
2. Maria Tolokonina (Russia)
3. Angelika Rainer (Italy)
Speed Male:
1. Alexey Tomilov (Russia)
2. Kirusha Kolshegochev (Russia)
3. Stanislav Lobzov (Russia)
Source: www.planetmountain.com
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