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Rock Climbing News - February 2012
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Tuesday, 28 February 2012Almost 100 competitors lined up Friday to tackle the qualifying problems, after which 23 men and 23 women advanced to semi-finals on Saturday afternoon. Finals started in the evening on Saturday, with the typical stacked line-up. The problems seemed to be on the reachy side for both men and women, as height was clearly an advantage on several climbs.
Puccio was the only woman to top al l four problems, with two flashes on #3 and #4. Angie Payne, Shauna Coxsey, and Lizzy Asher topped three of the four. The men's routes proved more challenging for the competitors—Daniel Woods and Ethan Pringle each topped just two problems, with everyone else finishing only one problem.
The crowd went wild when Michael Bautista hucked to and held the finishing hold on men's #4—the only man to top the problem—but in the excitement, Bautista forgot to match hands at the top, disqualifying the finish.
Puccio has won every ABS Nationals comp since 2006 with the exception of 2009, when Alex Johnson won. Woods has won five of the last seven Nationals.
2011: Sean McColl, Alex Puccio
2010: Daniel Woods, Alex Puccio
2009: Daniel Woods, Alex Johnson
2008: Paul Robinson, Alex Puccio
2007: Daniel Woods, Alex Puccio
2006: Daniel Woods, Alex Puccio
Women's final results:
- Alex Puccio
- Angela Payne
- Shauna Coxsey
- Lizzy Asher
- Alex Johnson
- Sasha DiGiulian
- Sierra Blair-Coyle
- Daniel Woods
- Ethan Pringle
- Michael Bautista
- Carlo Traversi
- Jon Cardwell
- Austin Geiman
Monday, 27 February 2012It was another good year for the Adopt a Crag program, with over 5,700 volunteers who amassed over 27,500 hours of work to improve and steward crags around the country. Since its inception in 1999, Adopt a Crag has been the largest climbing community volunteer initiative in the nation. Adopt a Crag events show land managers and the public that climbers take care of the places where they climb. Th ese stewardship efforts not only conserve our climbing areas, but also strengthen the reputation of the entire climbing community.
Each year, the Access Fund and its sponsors honor those organizers who went above and beyond. We are excited to present the 2011 Adopt a Crag awards to a deserving group of volunteers. We want to thank everyone who hosted or participated in an Adopt a Crag this year—it starts on the ground with your commitment and dedication to make this program a success. Whether you or your local climbing organization have hosted an Adopt a Crag in years past or hope to organize your first event, we are here to help. Register your Adopt a Crag for 2012 at http://www.accessfund.org/events and share this call to action for an Adopt a Crag at your local crag.
Stewardship Award – Tyler Hoffart
REI, CLIF Bar, and the Access Fund are proud to present the 2011 Stewardship Award to Tyler Hoffart, team coach of the St. Paul, MN Vertical Endeavors Mountain Goats. Tyler’s enthusiasm and leadership have created a “culture of stewardship” among the members of the VE youth teams. The Mountain Goats hosted or participated in every Minnesota Adopt a Crag that took place in 2011, plus one in Wisconsin – 8 events in all. Activities ranged from massive garbage cleanups to tree and brush removal, trail maintenance, trail building, graffiti removal, dirt work for foundation of a shed, and assisting with setting up an ice-farming system. Tyler himself worked on bolt replacement at some of the events, setting an example for the future leaders on his team. The Access Fund is happy to give this award to someone whose leadership teaches youth team members that climbing and stewardship go hand in hand, and whose enthusiasm makes working hard and taking care of crags fun.
Adopt a Crag of the Year Award – Eldorado Canyon Adopt a Crag hosted by Mike McHugh REI and the Access Fund are proud to present the 2011 Adopt a Crag of the Year Award to Eldorado State Park Resource Technician Mike McHugh who, despite a recent injury, hosted the Eldorado Canyon Adopt a Crag on October 1 in Boulder, CO with organizational support from the REI Boulder store. Mike organized volunteers on multiple projects, including: the decommissioning of an unsustainable social trail; rebuilding steps and re-opening a trail from streamside to the main lot; building water bars on the Redgarden Wall/roof route trails; placing posts for climbing access signage; and building a gabion on upper Redgarden Wall. The initial expectation was for 30 or so volunteers, but the event grew to over 75 volunteers, including the Spot Climbing Gym’s climbing team. Congratulations to Mike, and special thanks to REI Boulder store and The Spot Climbing Gym Team for their support!
Conservation Team Partner of the Year
The Access Fund-Jeep Conservation Team is pleased to award the very first Conservation Team Partner of the Year Award to the BLM’s Bishop Field Office for their ongoing conservation work in the volcanic Tablelands in Bishop, CA, and for their continued partnership with the climbing community. When our Conservation Team arrived in Bishop, the BLM provided them with all of the tools, equipment, man power, and educational resources needed to successfully preserve historic artifacts in the Tablelands by directing campers to the Pleasant Valley Pit Campground and closing down a new, illegally developed camping area within a cultural resource site. The BLM then turned the Conservation Team loose on the Sad Boulders lower approach, giving them the freedom to utilize their expertise and coordinate their own volunteer project. The Bishop Office also hosts monthly “Climber’s Coffee” gatherings, where BLM officials and climbers can discuss conservation and climbing issues in an informal setting. We are proud to present this award to the Bishop BLM Office for their ongoing efforts and cooperation to provide sustainable recreation opportunities in the volcanic Tablelands.
League of Their Own Award – Ken Yager and the Yosemite Facelift
Once again, the League of Their Own Award goes to Ken Yager and Yosemite Climbing Association (YCA) for the Yosemite Facelift. Ken and YCA have been setting the standard for climbing land stewardship for several years now. At this year’s Facelift event, 1,350 volunteers amassed an astounding 8,680 hours of work on a host of projects around the Valley, including the cleaning of roadways, river corridors, campgrounds, lodging and commercial areas, trails, climbing areas, and a variety of restoration and trail projects with the help of National Park Service. Yager reports that the Valley is getting cleaner and cleaner every year, and that over 95% of the debris gathered was recycled—way to go YCA! We would also like to recognize the NPS for their continued assistance and partnership with climbers in Yosemite. This landmark event is truly setting a benchmark for others from around the country to follow!
TeamWorks Golden Toothbrush – Urban Core Climbing Team
We are pleased to announce that this year’s TeamWorks Golden Toothbrush award goes to Urban Core Climbing Team of Atlanta, Georgia. The Urban Core kids “cleaned up” the competition—and many of the Southeast’s prominent climbing areas. Under the leadership of Coach Emily Taylor (and with the assistance of other local organizations like the Southeastern Climber’s Coalition, Girl Scouts, Boy Scouts, and Georgia Tech Outdoor Club), the Urban Core team cleaned up trash, did trail maintenance work, and had a hand in the removal of some invasive species at some of the premier climbing destinations in the Southeast, including: the Red River Gorge in Kentucky; Little River Canyon and Foster Falls in Tennessee; and Boat Rock and Rock Town in Urban Core’s home state of Georgia. Congratulations Urban Core! Honorable mentions for the 2011 competition include 2nd place finisher the Vertical Endeavor Mountain Goats (last year’s winner) and 3rd place team the Tennessee Bouldering Authority Ballers. The Access Fund would like to thank each and every one of the TeamWorks members who participated in the 2011 program. We are immensely proud to be involved with such a great group of kids from across the country, and we’re all excited to see what the next year has in store.
Friday, 24 February 2012Black Diamond Equipment, Ltd., a leading global innovator in climbing, skiing and mountain sports equipment, announces the release of their Alpinism 2012 digital catalog, the electronic evolution of their iconic print catalog. Set in Chamonix, France—one of the birthplaces of alpine climbing—Alpinism 2012 offers an immersive, dynamic, multimedia experience, blending authentic climbing photos, vid eos and storytelling elements with a selection of Black Diamond Equipment’s most essential alpine products.
“Catalogs have been an integral part of the Black Diamond Equipment brand since the very beginning,” explains Laura Fryer, Black Diamond Equipment’s Marketing Director. “We wanted to build off of BD’s storied print catalog with our new Alpinism 2012 digital catalog and make the experience more interactive and meaningful.”
Far more than a traditional print catalog, the Alpinism 2012 digital catalog features inspiring, spectacular imagery and video footage of everything Chamonix alpinism has to offer, from classic ridges to new-age mixed testpieces. Captured by photographer and accomplished alpine climber Jon Griffith, the visual elements are showcased in a user-controlled presentation that allows for zooming, audio captions and dynamic viewing. Black Diamond’s award-winning alpine climbing equipment gets equal billing in the digital catalog, with numerous essential alpine products being featured, including carabiners, crampons, packs, gloves and ice tools.
“Choosing alpinism as the theme for our first digital catalog was an obvious choice because alpinism is and continues to be a cornerstone of Black Diamond Equipment…not to mention we have numerous BD employees who are accomplished alpinists, including our CEO and Founder, Peter Metcalf,” explains Fryer. “We hope this resonates with climbers and gives them a deeper, more emotive experience when exploring the digital evolution of our catalog.”
Moving forward, Black Diamond Equipment has plans to unveil two additional digital catalogs for the Rock Climbing and Skiing product categories in 2012. Check out Black Diamond Equipment’s new Alpinism 2012 digital catalog at: http://catalog.blackdiamondequipment.com/alpinism2012/
Source: www.outdoorindustry.org
Thursday, 23 February 2012Legendary climbing apparel brand Gramicci will sponsor the 19th Annual Hueco Tanks Rock Rodeo Fundraiser March 2-4, 2012. The event is expected to draw some 500 – 700 people, ranging from athletes and climbing enthusiasts to teachers and non-profit members. All will gather to support environmental stewardship by raising money for the Hueco Tanks State Park's Lone Star Legacy Trust Fund. The goal for the weekend is to raise a minimum of $5,000.
The 19th Annual Hueco Rock Rodeo, presented by Adidas Outdoor and The Hueco Valley Foundation, will take place at Hueco Tanks State Park and Historic Site in El Paso County, Texas. There will be clinics, workshops, videos, and slideshows. The Adult Bouldering Competition is on March 3rd, and Pro Athlete clinics are being offered on March 4 from 11am to 3pm. Hueco Tanks is one of the most revered climbing areas in the US. All proceeds directly benefit the Texas Parks and Wildlife Foundation's Lone Star Legacy Endowment Fund. See www.HuecoRockRodeo.com to learn more.
Gramicci’s ambassador climber Nick Duttle will take part in the event, both competing and speaking. Nick is renown in Heuco Tanks for the many original hard “lines” he set. Nick will be competing in the Adult Bouldering competition on March 3rd Nick’s clinic will be held on Sunday, March 4th, 2012 (11am-3pm). Participants in Nick’s clinic will learn about Hueco Tanks' rich climbing history, how to build strength, recover properly and the importance of skin maintenance. Nick will be handing out samples of Gramicci’s latest performance climbing apparel made with NPT- Natural Performance Technology ™ at his clinic. Gramicci’s NPT hemp and organic cotton based fabric naturally produces higher levels of moisture management, breathability and body temperature regulation than both synthetics and the so-called performance cottons that are treated with chemicals This Gramicci technology is ideally suited for hot, dry climates like Hueco, and the ethos of its customers resonates with the environmental goals of the Hueco fundraiser.
Hueco Tanks is an area of low mountains in El Paso County, Texas. It is located in a high-altitude desert basin between the Franklin Mountains and the Hueco Mountains. Hueco is a Spanish word meaning hollows and refers to the many water-holding depressions in the boulders and rock faces throughout the region. Due to the unique concentration of historic artifacts, plants and wildlife, the site is under protection of Texas law. This special legal status helps mitigate the impact of the many visitors to the park.
The Hueco Tanks are widely regarded as one of the best areas in the world for bouldering (rock climbing) because of its unique rock type as well as the concentration and quality of the climbing. From October through March, it is common for climbers from across Europe, Asia, and Australia to visit the park. Since implementation of the Public Use Plan, volunteer or commercial guides are required to access more than two-thirds of the park's area. Only the North Mountain is accessible without guides, and even there only for about 70 people at any time. Nearby the Hueco Rock Ranch offers camping and a place for climbers to find guides, to relax and to socialize. The Hueco Rock Rodeo event is designed to keep Hueco clean and accessible for generations to come with invested stewardship from the climbing community.
Source: www.outdoorindustry.org
Wednesday, 22 February 2012The Norwegian mountaineering community has lost two of its finest with the deaths of Bjorn-Eivind Aartun and Stein-Ivar Gravdal.
The two were attempting a new ice route on the big wall of Kjerag, which rises more or less directly out of the Lysefjord in southwest Norway.
When they didn't return, a helicopter search was initiated, and on the morning of February 10 the two cl imbers were spotted hanging upside down on the face, motionless, and with considerable evidence of blood on the ice below.
It's surmised that they may have been hit by collapsing ice.
In February 2009 the pair had put up the amazing Strandhogg on this ca 900m face, Norway's premier big wall for both rock climbers and BASE jumpers.
This ephemeral ice route was the most coveted line at Kjerag and succumbed to very bold and sustained climbing at WI6+ M5+ and one short pendulum.
This ascent gained the pair one of the Norwegian Alpine Club's inaugural Alpine Awards, to "highlight and promote dedicated alpine climbing at a high level in Norway".
A couple of days later Aartun, this time with Annelin Henriksen added Pin-up (600m WI6) in the hanging valley left of the wall.
The likeable and unassuming 45-year-old Aartun, a photographer living in Oslo, started climbing in 1987, but for the next 20 years concentrated primarily on rock, making impressive new routes, repeats and first free ascents in Norway.
From 2007 he climbed in the Fitz Roy region of Patagonia on five occasions, repeating lines such as Los Tiempos Perdidos on Cerro Torre, and an astonishing fast ascent of the Ragni Route on the same peak.
He also put up two new routes; Hvit Linje (600m, WI5) below Poincenot, and the very recent Venas Azulas (AI6 M5) on Torre Egger.
In 2010 he made a single push first ascent of Dracula on Alaska's Mt Foraker with American Colin Haley, a climb that was nominated for a 2011 Piolet d'Or.
Gravdal was perhaps best known outside Norway for big wall climbing.
He made the first ascent of the North Face of Ulvatanna (2,950m) in Antarctica's Queen Maud Land, climbing the El Capitan-sized vertical granite face in 21 long pitches up to VI+ and A4.
He also made the second complete ascent of the legendary 1984 Norwegian Route on the northeast pillar of Great Trango Tower (East summit, 6,231m) in Pakistan, confirming the grade of this 1,500m route as VII 6b A4.
source: www.thebmc.co.uk
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