in Dutch
Search
Rock Climbing News
Rock Climbing News - Tuesday 22 May 2012
Display Mode:
Feed
Friday, 11 May 2012
Dave MacLeod continues to amaze with his top-shelf ascents in all aspects of climbing. In 2006 he established Rhapsody, then considered the hardest traditional climb in the world and the first climb given the grade of E11. He's climbed 5.14d sport routes, established Anubis, one of the hardest winter trad/ice climbs in the world, free-soloed 5.14 and now bouldered V15. Just like his possibly dis
tant relative Connor MacLeod, the main character in "The Highlander," Dave might just be immortal.
His recent 2nd ascent of Daniel Wood's Mystic Stylez (V15) in Magic Wood, Switzerland isn't the first time he's bouldered hard. This time last year he had just completed the first ascent of his then hardest boulder to date, Seven of Nine (V14) (article and video link) at the Sky Pilot crag of Ben Nevis in Scotland. He's been having quite a season this year as well with recent ascents of Conquistador Direct (V13/14) (video link) and New Base Line (V14).
Mystic Stylez was first established by Daniel Woods last October. According to Daniel, it adds a four-move V13 to the stand-start of Muttertag which he describes as a one move V11. Both Daniel and Dave commented on the tricky nature of the harder-than-it-looks climbing. Dave stated on his blog: "The holds did seem better than you would expect, but it’s not until you try it you realise that they are at such unhelpful angles that moving between them is desperate. It’s a running theme with the steeper problems on Swiss Gneiss. The holds are deceptively good, but the climbing very powerful."
As always, Dave is keeping an excellent blog with some great thoughts on projecting, progression, and training.
source: www.dpmclimbing.com
Thursday, 10 May 2012
Brooklyn Boulders (BKB) is stoked to announce that, on May 26 and 27, 2012, Daniel Woods, Sasha DiGiulian, and Paul Robinson will bring Professional Climbers International's (PCI) Pro Clinic Series to BKB. This trio of climbing stars will spend the weekend sharing their globally recognized psych and expertise helping participants develop applied power, advanced technique, and mental focus.
The PCI Clinic Series is a one-of-a-kind instructional tour, connecting the sport's most inspiring athletes with climbers who want to pull down harder. Each event features three PCI athletes for a weekend of performance clinics, product demos, poster signings, and slideshows. With only 12 events per year, this is the East Coast clinic and offers an exclusive opportunity for "Yankee" climbers.
3-hour clinics are available on Saturday and Sunday, May 26 and 27, from 8-11AM and 6-9PM. There will be a free community gathering on Saturday night at 10PM for film screenings, a question and answer session, gear raffle, and poster signings. For more information and to reserve a spot, visit www.ProClimbers.com.
Daniel Woods
7-time American Bouldering Series National Champion, he established countless extreme boulder problems around the globe. “The more I climb with others the more prepared I am to succeed. That’s one of the beauties of our sport, the learning we all go through.”
Sasha DiGiulian
The first American woman to climb 5.14d is the reigning United States and World Champion of Sport Climbing. “No one can ever “master” technique. In order to excel and push yourself you need to see beyond perceived limits.”
Paul Robinson
Established and repeated many of the world’s hardest boulder problems and is constantly looking for new challenges. “If you decide in your mind it’s possible, your body will do it.”
About PCI
PCI is a non-profit association founded by Kevin Jorgeson to promote and propel the careers of athletes, develop and inspire the next generation of climbers and to preserve and protect our climbing areas.
About BKB
Brooklyn Boulders is New York City’s largest climbing gym, and with 22,000 square feet of climbable terrain it’s one of the East Coast’s biggest. A dedicated and skilled setting staff makes Brooklyn Boulders both a premium training ground for advanced climbers and a launch pad for the total beginner.
source: www.rockclimbing.com
Wednesday, 9 May 2012
Alpine Courses: Memorial Day weekend marks the beginning of the climbing season in the great Northwest and a great way to prepare for the summer season. Start your training for challenging expeditions or for getting out on your own with our classic Glacier Mountaineering Course or Alpine Climbing Courses. With these courses you pull it all together and summit a beautiful Cascades peak for your gr
aduation! All courses provide motivated beginning climbers with the intensive hands-on experience necessary to move safely and efficiently over a wide diversity of climbing terrain and includes crevasse rescue. Completion of these course helps prepare climbers for expeditions to such places as Denali, Aconcagua, The Matterhorn, Mont Blanc, and many more challenging ascents in the Cascades and in the greater ranges of the world.
For a complete list of courses for all levels visit here.
Summit Climbs: With lots of snow in the mountains still at the end of May, we don't start up our summit climbs until June. But, spots on Mount Baker climbs are getting limited already for summer climbs. Click here for the list of Alpine Climbs.
Rock: Looking for some rock to climb during Memorial Day Weekend? Head out to Leavenworth for a 2 or 3-day Introduction to Rock or Intermediate Rock Course. Our guides teach setting top ropes, rappelling, climbing techniques and lead climbing. The magnificent granite of Leavenworth offers numerous climbing routes to practice your new skills. Extend your vacation with a summit of Liberty Bell Mountain with our Alpine Rock Seminar!
Tuesday, 8 May 2012
On the road to the eagerly awaited The North Face Kalymnos Climbing Festival 2012, the great climbing meeting which will take place from 26 - 30 September on the beautiful Greek island which has become a second home to all climbers. Here is the detailed program, information about how to register and also a video in which James Pearson and Iker Pou introduce the crags and the relaxed way of living
of this authentic pearl of rock climbing worldwide.
OFFICIAL PROGRAM
WEDNESDAY SEPTEMBER 26th
11am - 10pm OPEN Marathon and BIG Marathon Official Registration
THURSDAY SEPTEMBER 27th
7am - 3pm PROJECT Competition Warm-up
11am - 10pm OPEN Marathon and BIG Marathon Official Registration
5pm The North Face Kalymnos Climbing Festival Official Opening
FRIDAY SEPTEMBER 28th
7am - 5pm PROJECT Competition
8am - 9am OPEN Marathon and BIG Marathon Official Registration
9am OPEN Marathon and BIG Marathon – Day1
9.30pm Seaside Story Teller's Night. Exploration and adventure stories with The North Face athletes and guests
SATURDAY SEPTEMBER 29TH
7am - 5pm PROJECT Competition
9am - 5pm OPEN Marathon and BIG Marathon – Day2
8.30pm - 10.30pm Greek Dinner with local food and traditional music
10.30pm Beach party with live DJ set
SUNDAY SEPTEMBER 30TH
10am - 4pm Chill-out climbing with The North Face athletes
6.30pm Prize Giving
- OPEN Marathon: Competition for teams of two. Categories: male, female and mixed - team scoring.
All the routes in this competition have a minimum difficulty level of 5a to a maximum of 7a according to the French grading system.
- BIG Marathon: Competition for teams of two. Categories: male, female and mixed - team scoring.
The routes in this competition have a minimum difficulty level of 7a+ to a maximum of 8a according to the French grading system
Prizes for the OPEN Marathon and BIG Marathon categories consist of The North Face products with a total value of 5000 €
- PROJECT Competition: competition on superhard routes from 8a+ onwards. The competition will take place on a new crag that has been specifically bolted for The North Face Kalymnos Climbing Festival.
Prize money for the PROJECT Competition: 10 000 € cash
Be one of the first to pre-register online on http://www.thenorthfacejournal.com/category/kalymnos to secure your goodie bag at the Festival.
Monday, 7 May 2012
For over 10 years the Teva Mountain Games, a project of the Vail Valley Foundation, has hosted some of the most progressive outdoor sports competitions in the world, from downriver stand up paddling races, to mountain bike freeride trials, to World Cup climbing competitions. This year, the festival is pleased to welcome another emerging sport to its diverse event lineup—competitive slacklining. F
rom June 1-3 at the Teva Mountain Games, the world’s top slackliners will battle it out head-to-head at the Gibbon Games International Slackline Competition, a World Slackline Federation-sanctioned event in Vail.
Slacklining is the act of balancing along a narrow, flexible piece of webbing typically anchored between two trees. Originating in the climbing world, slacklining has evolved into a cross trainer, a backyard activity, and now a competitive sport that combines balance, strength, agility and acrobatics. Gibbon Slacklines is the world’s leading manufacturer of slacklines and sponsors a team of professional athletes and competitions across North America.
“We saw our first slackline competition at the Outdoor Retailer show in Salt Lake City last summer and immediately realized it would be a perfect addition to our event,” states Michael Imhof, vice president of sales and operations at the Vail Valley Foundation, organizers of the annual Teva Mountain Games. “Because it’s so accessible, dynamic and fun, slacklining is exploding in popularity right now and we’re pleased to host one of the new sport’s biggest competitions right here in Vail.”
Slacklining got a big boost in exposure earlier this year when Gibbon professional slackliner, Andy Lewis, performed during the Super Bowl Halftime Show alongside Madonna. Lewis is slated to compete in Vail along with current national and world champion, Michael Payton, and numerous other pro slackliners from around the world.
“We’re excited to showcase our sport to the thousands of spectators that attend the Teva Mountain Games,” notes Emilio Torres, vice president of sales and marketing for Gibbon Slacklines USA. “With a cash purse on the line, the competition will be intense. It’s going to be fun to watch.”
The Gibbon Games International Slackline Competition at the Teva Mountain Games starts on Friday, June 1, with single elimination qualifying rounds judged on difficulty, creativity and performance. The finals are scheduled to take place on Sunday, June 3.
In addition to the pro competition, an interactive demo area will be set up for anyone to try slacklining throughout the festival. For more information, click here.
For the latest news, tips, trivias and special offers, sign up to the ABC of Rock Climbing newsletter.
advertisementadvertising info
advertisementadvertising info
Latest Rock Climbing News
For a complete list of all discount coupons with our merchants, subscribe to our Discount RSS Feed: 
MySpace
Squidoo
Facebook
Twitter
© 2003-2012 ABC of Rock Climbing, part of MaxLifestyle International Inc. All rights reserved.
