Best Climbing Holds for Training

The Science of Indoor Climbing Texture

Designing a home climbing wall is a dream for many enthusiasts, but the true quality of your training session depends heavily on the interface between your skin and the wall: the climbing holds. Not all grips are created equal. The right selection of holds allows you to simulate outdoor projects, build specific tendon strength, and prevent injury through ergonomic design. In this guide, we dive deep into the world of holds to help you curate the perfect set for your home gym.

Core Materials: Polyurethane vs Polyester Resin

The debate between Polyurethane (PU) and Polyester Resin (PE) has shaped the industry for decades. Understanding these materials is vital for long term durability and safety on your wall.

Polyurethane (PU): This is the modern gold standard. PU holds are lightweight, extremely impact resistant, and difficult to break. If you over tighten a bolt, a PU hold will likely survive, whereas a resin hold might crack. PU also allows for more intricate shapes and finer textures that mimic real rock without being overly abrasive.

Polyester Resin (PE): These are generally heavier and more brittle but offer a distinct advantage: high UV resistance and extreme hardness. Many old school climbers prefer the "stony" feel of resin. However, they are prone to chipping if dropped or over tightened. For home walls, PU is usually recommended due to its safety profile and ease of installation.

Mastering the Four Essential Grip Types

To create a well rounded training environment, you need a mix of different hold geometries. Each type targets specific muscle groups and technical skills.

1. Jugs: The Recovery Grips

Jugs are large, easy to grab holds that allow your whole hand to wrap around the surface. They are essential for warm ups, beginner routes, and training big dynamic moves. Even for advanced climbers, a few high quality jugs are necessary for endurance laps and active recovery during a long circuit.

2. Crimps: Building Finger Power

Crimps are small edges that require you to pull with your fingertips. They are the bread and butter of difficult outdoor climbing. When selecting crimps for a home gym, look for "incut" edges for beginners and "flat" or "sloping" edges for advanced training. Consistent practice on crimps is the fastest way to increase finger strength, though it should be supplemented with hangboard training to ensure tendon health.

3. Slopers: Friction and Body Tension

Slopers have no distinct edge; they rely entirely on friction and the surface area of your hand. Using slopers effectively requires impeccable body tension and "staying under" the hold. On a home wall, slopers often provide the most significant challenge because they become much harder to use as the temperature rises and skin friction decreases.

4. Pockets: Targeted Tendon Training

Pockets are holes in the holds that accommodate one, two, or three fingers. These are excellent for isolating specific fingers but carry a higher risk of injury. We recommend rounded, ergonomic pockets that do not have sharp internal edges, ensuring that the force is distributed evenly across the finger pads.

Texture and Longevity Considerations

The "seasoning" of a climbing hold refers to how the texture changes over time. Cheap holds often lose their grit quickly, becoming "glassy" and unusable. Premium brands use advanced molding techniques to ensure that the texture remains consistent even after thousands of uses.

Texture is a double edged sword. Aggressive, sandpaper like textures provide great grip but can tear through skin in a single session. For home gyms where you likely train multiple times a week, a medium "skin friendly" texture is often superior. It allows for longer sessions without the pain of "flappers" or excessive skin loss.

Recommendations for Every Level

For beginners, the focus should be on ergonomic comfort. Look for "full hand" sets that allow you to build confidence without straining your tendons. Polyurethane is the best choice here as it is forgiving and durable.

Advanced climbers should look for "system" holds. These are symmetrical pairs that allow for identical training on both the left and right sides of the body. This is crucial for identifying and correcting strength imbalances. If you are training for a specific outdoor project, look for holds that mimic the rock type of that area, whether it is the sharp limestone crimps or the smooth granite slopers.

Safety and Installation Standards

The safety of your climbing holds is only as good as the hardware securing them. Always use high strength alloy steel bolts. Avoid zinc plated bolts if your wall is in a high humidity area like a garage, as they can corrode over time. Ensure your plywood is at least 3/4 inch thick to prevent the T-nuts from pulling through the back of the board during high impact falls.

Furthermore, keep your holds clean. Over time, rubber from your shoes and chalk from your hands will fill the pores of the hold's texture. A simple scrub with a stiff nylon brush and some water (or a mild vinegar solution) can restore a "glassy" hold to its original grippy state.

Environmental Ethics and Manufacturing

As we spend more time training indoors, it is important to consider the environmental impact of the climbing industry. Many modern hold manufacturers are moving toward more sustainable production methods, including recycling old holds and using bio based resins. Supporting companies that prioritize environmental responsibility ensures that our passion for the vertical world does not come at the cost of the natural landscapes we love to climb.

At ABC of Rock Climbing, we believe that the right equipment is the foundation of every great ascent. By choosing high quality, durable climbing holds, you are investing in your progress as an athlete and ensuring that your home gym remains a safe, challenging, and inspiring place to train for years to come.